What could go wrong?

Please dont change the titles of my threads Brian. They are fine

would you mind to explain this?

How do you fix this?

How do you avoid this?

Is there a solution?

how often does this happen?
How much larger do you have to dimension the battery (in terms of constant C-rate versus expected constant draw)?

when a motor is forced to turn above itā€™s no load speed it generates a voltage higher than the battery voltage.

to avoid phase to phase short circuits, probably donā€™t put too many amps through the motor which could degrade the thin, clear insulation inside the motor.

to avoid thermal runaway iā€™d say use a non flammable chemistry like lithium iron instead of lithium polymer or lithium ion.

to avoid radio interference while braking, a combination of dual redundant receivers could be used combined with directional faraday cages, but iā€™m not sure if these are available for application at this time.

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does an anti-spark switch solve this sufficiently?

How many A would you use a 0.15mm Nickel strip for?

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how often? once was enough for me, messed me up good.

you can control this by setting the appropriate soft and hard lower-voltage cutoff values.

set the soft cutoff high enough so the esc has time to pull back current draw, which will prevent further battery sag. hope that made sense.

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Do you actually run this?

when mixing KV motors, this can be avoided by correctly setting the gearing ratios - right?

much love.
I hope someone develops a more compact form of LiFePO4 or similar cells one day.

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@thisguyhere What happened? It went full brakes and threw you off?

I assume you have a DieBieMS or a similar smart BMS?

nope, iā€™m setting the voltage values in the motor controller (unity).

but none of this matters now since almost everyoneā€™s discharge bypassing the bms.

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Interesting, and thanks for saving me a street-face, Iā€™d never thought much about pack sag and voltage cut-offsā€¦ Iā€™ll pay much better attention to setting my cut-offs and pack sag!!!

Great resource:

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i thought my boosted mini x has it because of the leads that end under both trucks but iā€™m not entirely sure, someone mentioned they might just be for auxilliaries which werenā€™t made available. iā€™m interested to know whether something like this could be used directly:

https://www.killerplanes.com/content/spektrum-assan-dual-receiver-controller-wireless-buddy-box-system

ā€œOperates with one radio and two receivers OR two radios controlling two receiver buddy boxes.ā€

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Thank you for the info!

I am considering to do the same, but am worried about over-discharging a weaker p-group. But I guess in the worst case you just replace the p-group. :slight_smile:

I wish the VESC could just read cell voltages, too. That would eliminate the need for discharge BMS entirely.

outch. I gotta take this serious. Thank you!

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the receivers and transmitters we use for eSk8 are mostly toy grade in the RC hobby control world. for full and complete redundancy one could go the route of the Frsky R-XSR route. One could run two complete receivers, add as much separation as one would need, two antennas on each receiver, and use SBUS or CPPM

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Suggestion: Make it a [serious] thread.

Thereā€™s no need, I enjoy reading peopleā€™s thoughts. Iā€™ll sift through it and update the main topic when we get to critical mass.

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I guess this as good a thread as any

Iā€™m using a heatsink for my focboxes, and I think I want to keep the top plastic over on so I can protect the PCB from wires and pressure (from cables, the xt90 to xt60 splitter, etc) once its assembled. Is there any reason not to use the plastic covers? What could go wrong

Using two receivers has its own problem. You canā€™t use traction control. You want traction control because weā€™re using current control, when a motor loses traction it spins up faster losing even more traction

If it was duty cycle it would be different since thatā€™s more speed based

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