I believe something like that exists already with softair guns.
Might not be a good idea for any locations in the street as animals like to eat those. As far as I know, it isn’t harmful to them to eat them but it could cause issues if it encourages animals to be near busy streets.
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SUPER-SOAKERS
A test of strength and waterproofing 
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I have a good set of laser tag guns. 8 total 
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There’s some pretty cool electric water cannons around these days
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Angle grinders use gears that are almost small enough, but have a pretty bad reduction ratio. Definitely seen one or two folks build diffs from a twin-pair of those gears though! Usually for small go-karts.
Let’s draw that out some:
Most motor cores are hollow, and made of aluminum. Aluminum is a good thermal conductor. In theory, it could help. Larger outrunners that are water cooled usually run cooling loops through the dead-space in the middle of the motor core outside of the spinning central shaft. Why not replace those cooling loops with something more efficient? Heat pipes! From there, you’d for sure get way better cooling from an otherwise-self-contained system that doesn’t require any extra parts. And you can add however much heat-sink you need to improve the thermal radiation. Then again, a lot of gear and belt drives use aluminum anyway and are pretty large, so they end up being heat-sinks anyway. The only place I see a benefit in efficiency is extracting heat from the core of the motor.
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The ebike world has even better solutions that don’t take up extra space in their motors. They fill the motor up with some fancy ferro fluid called Statorade. Apparently it is better than generic ferro fluid based on some ebike forums.
The forum discussing the difference:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=98160
That forum site honestly helped a ton when I was trouble shooting my abused hub motor. A lot of good information is over there that can be applied to some of our motors too
Super familiar with that entire thread; read probably 40% of it over the years. Small diameter outrunners benefit less from that, due to higher RPM, smaller surface area, potentially really crap magnet glue on cheaper motors, and an inability to mount hubsinks while maintaining proper dynamic balance. (plus the whole flailing fins at 6-12k RPM would cause lots of air resistance and shrapnel ammo in case of structural failure)
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I was considering doing it for my hub motors but got stopped when I couldn’t get an insulting varnish that was clear without buying an entire box of the stuff. I don’t like the idea of using the red version since it means you can no longer visually inspect the circuit board for the sensors.
I’m not surprised someone else on here has viewed those forums though since they’re the only good information that comes up when searching for common motor issues. Some pages on here come up but they had more information related to hub motors specifically
I’m planning to fully insulate windings with the red stuff or some other clear stuff I bake in, and run a constant drip of water from a reservoir in my seatpost feeding a thin nylon tube that ends with many tiny holes deeep in the windings. The water will drip down through the winding and drop to the rotor n fly out. Water will be flying out but that’s cool. Water directly on the windings can’t be beat. I’ll throw red hot metal in a bucket of water and it’s cool enough to touch in like one second.
Not a board but some similar passive cooling could be made.
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-want to weld aluminum
-have argon and TIG machine but no AC mode
-have flipsky esc lyin around
*Can I use a vesc based esc as a substitute for a welding machine?
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lmao if you could design a quick swap motor so it could have bearing service as easy as possible flood cooling would be worth testing.
How much battery do you guys think one could fit in the sole of a skate shoe?
I don’t get why u think the bearings will be damaged. Stainless steel bearings. I plan on never replacing. Could even do distilled water to be obsessive.
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Got tthis12s4p 30Q pack and a couple 4.2 VESCs and this enclosure from Europe… Wondering if I can squeeze this into some semblance of a decent e-box lol. I’ll have to forgo extras like battery meters and such. Idk how I’d even fit a button in here…
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I’m curious is theres a device like a cross between a grin statiator and a desktop BMS that could charge any battery at any rate to any voltage, all configurable, and could also charge, discharge individual 1s groups at configurable rates? Would do current tapering and all that jazz… Is this a thing?
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Check out the chargers at ProgressiveRC, some incredibly capable monsters there. As you would expect they cost hundreds of dollars.