so far the best options I’ve found have been long lengths of heat shrink+cable glands and ungodly amounts of clear goop that one has to let solidify for days.
what about the power button and charge port? how waterproof could one make those parts and how waterproof tdo they need to be?
additionally, @b264 what do I look for to find the thin rubber you used? seems like the best way to avoid water soaking through the deck.
i do actually coat both of these with hot glue on on the inside of the enclosure. It will keep water ingress from shorting things.
not worried about the power button/switch shorting through water? or the charge port?
There really isn’t much you can do about the outside port and button ingress except use the best components you can find. For charge ports that means ones with rubber plugs or better and for buttons that means checking the specs for water resistance.
any reccomendations?
the switches that come with the stormcores are great. The unity switches were mediocre. The flipsky switches are hit or miss. If you bring your own, just check the specs.
i generally use 10 amp rated barrel connector charge ports on my boards (with below 10amp chargers, unless its a flux) and they come with rubber plugs usually. Most of the time they’re good for splash protection.
really splash protection is all you need to be concerned about. Unless you’re absolutely paranoid about yeeting into the lake.
I live on an ocean coast so that’s a possibility lol. would be nice to be able to go through monstrous lake-sized puddles too
never intentionally submerge your board. We’re in here talking about water proofing and shit to protect ports and ESCs and batteries, but nobody’s talking about bearings. Wheel bearings will get trashed and are easily replaced, but that’s not the only set of bearings. Motor bearings are not easy to replace. Pulley bearings may or not be easy to replace.
To reiterate,my power switch with the suplied O ring and loctite are enouth so they don’t back out and are fully water proof and the charger plug does it’s job too!
Damon as “the only chick here” the thought of you squatting and
Is not a pretty thought 
everything i do is fucking fabulous. don’t hate.
Haha you do you! Agreed on the bearings,I carry pulley/wheel spares and tools in my backpack but if motor bearings were to go at least you could limp home on one motor! If you’ve been in this hobby long enough you know sometimes shit hits the fan!
I use this but it’d be better if you could find actual latex (not neoprene) that’s thinner than 1.6mm (1/16").
Might be even better if you could find a source for 0.8mm thick polyurethane sheets. @RipTideSports
Yes, same as this:
Except I use West System 650 epoxy or RTV silicone. On the inside of the enclosure.
@longhairedboy I’m sure you’d be the man “girl” whatever you like to go by you dirty slag lol in all seriousness,is there any difference with bearings in battle hardened motors as opposed to ya bog standard? I’ve pulled some enertion ones apart and maytech but not for this reason!
i mean i’m still using sealed maytechs with whatever they come with and they seem to last forever. but eventually saltwater will fuck shit up. my motors on my thane daily are three years old and still killing it, but they’ve only seen puddles and rain.
Maytech battle hardened motors are definitely built to last,I’m running the unsealed with the red on the top and bottom of the can on this new build,so far so good,they obviously never get too hot as they dissipate heat well but also get drenched! “Uk weather” 
McMaster has 40A durometer latex strips/sheets down to 0.006” thickness.
McMaster has this too. 
i’ve done it on my old board 
just for you bb 
to tech:
this also proves hot glue, double sided tape, and silicone do just fine even with a loopkey port and 2 xt60 plugs and 2 bungs (lmao bungs (meaning the front and back of the enclosure don’t exist as one part pretty much)) 
Doesn’t prove anything until it sits in the closet for 3 days afterward. That’s the real test 