Sure, h2o safety.
@b264 and the rest of you amphibians, give me your best practices to avoid a watery grave.
I am aware that our supreme overlord lives in Florida, land of perpetual dank crotch. Most nights I curse the moon and she sheds a tear inland and leaves my coast alone.
Sure, I’ll tape up my breather holes. Tell me what else I should do to avoid Shorts and corrosion. I’m standing in only my soaked boxers, planing my efoil build right meow.
I suspect that @b264 buys conformal coating by a 100L, fills an old tub and then just dips the whole assembled esk8, rinse and repeat
Nail polish won’t save us.
The secret is not to keep water out.
The secret is to keep water out, but make sure it works if water gets in. And don’t use motor sensors.
Do those 3 things you’ve increased your chances of success by ten times.
can you eleborate on the sensors part? - I kinda like my hubs on Hall sensors (they are fully waterproofed end to end) … except i need to buy something to plug the motor wire opening from the hubs… open to suggestions
Hall sensors fail before any other part of a motor.
You can waterproof them. Not using them is more reliable. For hub motors or direct drive, I would try to seal them up in a very permanent way.
Today is the Chemical shopping day - Delayed by a week - So anything you can recomend im down (like the stuff you use to make those legendary Loopkeys - it’s so impressive looking i dont even wana cover it with the Printed cover 
That loopkey you have has MG Chemicals #4223 on it, about fifteen coats. Yes, 15. Maybe more.
I don’t use 4223 much though, only for specific things, and loopkeys is one of those things. Also if you need to solder two large gauge wires together and you do it clean enough, you can put like 15 coats of that on it, and it looks like the insulation just changes colors but it’s a single wire that was never cut. But really I don’t think 4223 is absolutely necessary
Mostly I use MG Chemicals 419D and 419C — but 419C is unobtainium. It’s probably approximated by mixing 419D with acetone, but since I still have some, I haven’t tried [yet].
Also neutral cure silicone is a staple, and of course a few good epoxies. West System 650 and JB Weld 8265-S Original Steel come to mind
Going to be so poor soon, - any tools /chems for cleaning PCBs/ soldering cleanup etc, corrision in general?
It’s controversial, but I don’t usually clean PCBs — and if I do, it’s with cotton swabs and isopropanol 91% which is currently unobtainable in my country due to the pandemic. (I’m getting low also)
The silicone in my bathroom always slowly deteriorates away and needs replacing; granted it isn’t neutral cure, but I’m wondering if the same happens to the silicone we use to stick p-groups together / seal off the ends of battery packs. 
I opted away from 91% but thats only due to the strange residue it seems to leave,
I haven’t noticed it, but I have wondered the same exact thing
ooof.
did your boxes of Foc survive?
been there, killed that
Anyone ever throw any desiccant in an enclosure to mitigate water if it gets in?
We do this for our oceanographic instruments at work, but it’s really only good for a couple drops, mostly to remove atmospheric moisture in a sealed enclosure. If the instrument floods or even leaks slightly, it won’t do much in the way of help.
It helps if you have a slight leak, like from splashing your board through bum urine.
Hmm maybe a moisture sensor built into the enclosure would be an overcomplicating feature to add.
i just could not let this pass unappreciated
I use it a fair bit as well. I should have been more specific in my last post. I was thinking more as a final last stop kinda thing. Assuming you had a sealed enclosure/conformal coating/potting done. If you had any room maybe throwing some form of desiccator in there would help as a failsafe. Or absorbent for bum urine. 
I initially read it as brine, but bum urine is probably just as corrosive. Lol
