UART can act as critically as CAN. They use basically the same commands.
However, CANbus is more robust and have (by its standard) more feature for prioritizing and checking its signal integrity.
Using CANbus should be the way to go each time it’s possible. 
Why was is previously not necessary to set the Duty Cycle at 85% percent (if you value your life)? I can confirm that today I almost fell down at around 40 km/h because of the effect; however, I don’t remember having experienced this issue previously?
Can something be done with this?
I accidentally activated CC at around 50km/h and I got thrown off.
If it weren’t for my protective equipment I would not have any skin on my fingers, elbow or shoulder.
Oh la laa 
The rest of you is ok?
Sort off.
My hip is bruised and sore and my fingers are stiff.
I would hate to think what would happen with less or inferior protection.
I don’t understand. How was the activation of CC causally linked to you falling, i.e. why do you think CC made you fall?
Do me a favour.
Hit 40-50km/h put cruise control on, remove your thumb from the throttle and then take cruise control off.
Let me know how it goes.
So you actually fell off when you deactivated rather than activated CC?
Glad you are okay!
Edit: I cannot go as fast as you and prefer not to use CC cause it delays reaction time possible for a crucial moment in traffic. Would only use it in wide open spaces with nobody around (and never at high speeds, of course).
CC is a totally unnecessary feature in my humble option.
If you travel long distances, e.g. 50-100 km at constant speed, it can make sense though.
I rarely ride on the highway 
CC is the future, once esk8 has replaced cars, the highways are ours, and we can go 1000+ km with a single charge ;-).
@Trampa Do you think it would make sense to add a USB port or wireless charging for example to the WAND? It would make charging a lot easier, especially if you wrap it in a cover like I do.
We will add a FW with screen off option. Then you should get 100 hours of batt life.
Can the remote potentially accept a lipo battery?
As far as i understand it accepts 2** remote batteries at 3V total, a lithium ion would fit in the voltage range but the discharge meter would be way off.
Obviously, way outside warranty terms…
I’m all for using a rechargeable battery for 2-3 years than throwing away hundreds of zinc-chloride or alkaline batteries that may or may not end up in landfills.
A high quality usb-c port and PD charging would go a long way as well… 5 minutes on a 25W charger for x hours use
No. The MCU runs of the battery supply. In this case the NRF module.
Absolute max supply for the NRF is 3.9V. If you put a lipo in there it most definatly goes poof.
Use rechargeable AAA cells and you good with that one.
This is what I do.
I don’t get what the big deal is.
Just carry a spare set with you, change them in 60sec, instead of waiting minutes for your bigger and heavier powerbank to charge your remote, and charge the other set when you get home.
Even if you forget to carry a spare set you can buy these virtually anywhere.
IMO this is one of the best features of the remote and I would hate to see it gone.
Lipo is not an option on the current design and FW.
Rechargeable AAAs are also what we use.
I get so many hours of riding from one pair of AAAs that
you actually do not need spare AAAs at all. 30 hours remote life is the minimum I have.
