VESC WAND REMOTE soon to arrive from the future

If you want a military spec thumb wheel: They start at 60 to 100USD per thumb lever, purchase price fro manufacturer.
The poti issue is not so common and easy to fix. The Wand is the only remote that can detect a faulty poti and that can filter bad signals from a faulty poti. On most skate PPM remotes you will find very similar thumb controlled potentiometers. They simply don’t tell you when they are warn or give strange signals from time to time.

Most skate PPM remotes cost around 30€.

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That doesn’t help you when your board goes full beans or applies brakes by itself.

Seems like more problems exist with the wand that ever did with PPM remotes. I’d be interested in seeing some failure numbers on the wand.

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Never happend to me with the GT2b (which is PPM remote) (3 different models).
However, I have weird accel/brake behaviour with the WAND like I already told you.
Plus the throttle stays in full brake position like @Soflo and @tipsy

@mmaner
Can’t tell for others, but here are my stats ATM :
GT2b problem ratio : 0/3 = 0%
WAND problem ratio : 1/1 = 100%
:smile:

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That was the last message I got from you:

Here is a video.
I couldn’t cheat the joystick, it always reacted as needed :

If you lower the Thumb wheel position, it cant get stuck. It’s an adjustment thing.

Ok, 2 things you REALLY have to understand Frank.

  1. This is a PRIVATE message. You reached me by PM, don’t know why but you’re not allowed to publish it on the public forum (forum policy).
  2. I DO have weird behaviours with my WAND whenever you like it or not. I did the test as you requested because you told me (let me brake the rules as well) :

joystick related. I’m certain.

You’re getting me tired.
I’ve been a beta tester for the VESC 6 and now the WAND.
When we report issues, we get the same answer : “this is normal / this is an adjusment / you use it the wrong way…”

So, if everything looks fine for you, then let me tell everybody that the WAND isn’t a good remote that can’t be improve because… well, you said so. Right ?

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I told you that we swap the PCB. We are in general very solution oriented. Our riders would test your PCB to see if they can replicate the issue you described.
However, I’m surprised to hear that you have issues, while you showed me that the throttle signal looks perfectly clean and always reacts as supposed.
Maybe the issue you experienced is not input signal related at all.

The replacement PCB would also fix your throttle lever adjustment.

I think we are going to start seeing people with poti issues cropping up. The remote is relatively heavy, and the potentiometer not very beefy or durable. I dropped mine from no more than 20cm from the ground (was putting my heel straps on) and it landed face down and that was that. I was in Belgium with no alternative and had to compete with a broken remote (still came 3rd :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:) I have another potentiometer and will fix it but for now I’m back on the VX1.

It’s my only complaint for the whole remote, the rest of it is brilliant. It feels fine, I can be really accurate with it but it’s the weak part and I think there will be issues with it, oh and it’s a pain to change, pcb tracks really close to some of the pads etc.

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I offer you the ability to improve your products by doing some tests rather than just swap the PCB.
I tried for 1 min to reproduce the issue. Couldn’t.
That does not mean the issue isn’t here.
I got it yesterday evening.
I’m not sure if it’s HW related, but you were certain it was. I just followed your request, Sir.
Now, I’m the bad guy.

Your riders won’t have my setup for testing nor my riding style.
This is why this isn’t a proper way to test. Too many variables change.

I’ll try to reproduce the issue the more I can and see if I can identify a common factor.
Will do on VESC Tool as well.

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If it died from that, it is definatly a mechanical issue, if the knob takes force from falling and that force translate into the POT its a poor solution. The force need to be absorbed by something more. Preferably the POT is relieved from stress and the PCB absorbs the hit as it should be more durable.

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You can imagine that our riders fall a lot, practising jumps, spins, wheelies etc.
We have some Wands that look like 10 year old Rimova travel gear, all of them in use and working just fine.
We also have a box full of broken plastic remotes of all kinds.

Frank I’m not trying to hate on the wand, I have plenty of good things to say about it. Here is the potentiometer


The wand with batteries weighs 171g

A direct hit to that potentiometer is not gonna be good. I’m just playing with the data I have, owned 4 months? Failed potentiometer once and joystick once.

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I already see, we need a 3D printed bumber case which protect the trigger :wink::sweat_smile:

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Just to clarify things;
image

The green part is the actual potentiometer (a variable resistor of sorts). I thought you meant that was the thing that broke.
IF its the mechanical contraption that is the joystick that is breaking, then that is another issue.

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Ah yep you are correct, it’s the mechanical part that broke on mine, the potentiometer seemed to be functional still. Either way you have to change both parts I guess as they come together.

I think this part needs to be improved for V2 of the wand. The rest of it is good. Maybe an external antenna on the RX to satisfy the guys that have reported signal issues (I have had no signal issues, rock solid in London, Birmingham and Brussels)

@Andy87 thought about it but a million projects on the go at the moment

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On the old nintendo nunchucks, you could separate the two. Its a small plastic bajonette holding on to the joystick. Once removed it dsn’t fit as good anymore tho so I ended up putting a dab of glue.

I know this particular component has been hard finding a good source for in the past. Maybe that search isn’t over just yet

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Remember the days when you launched your wii remote at the wall because you forgot to put on the strap? Didnt break tho

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The remote didn’t, the TV was another story :slight_smile:.

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