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Thanks much!
Is there specific VESC tool settings to configure for powerful acceleration? Like messing with the throttle curve or positive ramping time etc for 6374 190kv rated for 80a motors on a 12s3p 40T? I want acceleration > top speed
Gear it to a low top speed (most important)
Maximize the âmotor ampsâ setting.
Battery amps can be low
High gearing ratio, high motor amp setting, low positive ramp time setting in app settings (e.g.0.2S positive ramp time).
Why does it say battery amps must be lower than motor amps?
If my battery can theoretically output 200A and my motors 80A and I set the battery to 100A and the motors to 80A, wouldnât my motors just be capped at 100A regardless?
Battery current wonât ever go above motor current. Actually since the VESC doesnât go over 95% duty cycle, it wonât go over 95% of motor current
Right but the vesc tool specifically says to never set it above.
Itâs not really a safety risk though is what I mean.
No, the motors would be capped at DutyCycleMax x MotorMax or 0.95 * 80A
I donât think thatâs a safety risk
I heard there was a weird glitch a few hundred versions ago where if you set the battery amps higher than the motor amps, at high speed it would enter turbo drive, basically match motor to battery amps 1 to 1. Think it was around the time hub motors were looked at highly with their overheating characteristics at 25A, so default 99A battery was quite the surprise
Dead time compensation value: what it do?
There was a discussion about it and completely forgot where
Thatâs a way to compensate for the deadtime placed in by the MCU to prevent shoot-through conditions in the MOSFETs. Itâs part of the gate driver portion of the controller. More deadtime is safer but creates more distortion in the current sensing and throws off current measurements. The compensation helps account for this and the firmware should have a preset value that best accommodates the hardware being used.
Any of you guys using smart reverse ever experience that while braking from like 2km/h the brake force just let go and you keep rolling even with throttle in full brake position?
I had this now twice happening in the last weeks. Always in a stop and go situation. Means I did accelerate for 5m, then hit the brakes, did slow down till round about 2km/h and then brakes just stopped to work for 2-3seconds (maybe the ramping time?) where I did continue to roll. After that the wheels blocked and started to turn backwards.
Little bit like a mini cut out just without being a cut out.
Yep, happens to me once in a while. Never figured out what causes itâŚ
That is the speed at which hall sensors kick in generally. They do a way worse job at holding torque for some reason on SOME motors
My old flipshit 6355âs would make it very obvious when they switch to sensors while on my recent 6374âs itâs impossible to tell and torque is very consistent up until 0km/hr
Tip: if you want holding torque you can engage smart reverse and ease down the throttle after. With some practice you can make it creep backwards very slowly and since itâs duty cycle mode it will do it on any incline
I have the problem only in smart reverse.
Edit: I mean I ride only in smart reverse. I didnât try current mode or any other. So using smart reverse doesnât fix that issue
Edit edit: do I understand right that if I set my motors to sensored FOC or bldc and my hall sensors fail, I will lose brake force below 2km/h to 100%
Thatâs big shit than and a big safety issue in my humble opinion.
That is why we try to make sensors obsolete. One part less to worry about.
Also five less ways for water to get inside the enclosure. And fully waterproof motor.
So my assumption is right?
How do unsensored brakes work then?
Why arenât sensors used for startup only if it can be a risk factor while braking?
You need to track the rotor position to create torque. Either you use sensors or you use advanced methods like HFI or the upcoming methods. Without tracking of the rotor, you canât create the torque you need for braking.