Would I be better off contacting flipsky?
Load default parameters, run a detection, then switch off phase filters.
I’ve already done that maybe 10 times…
I’ll give it another try though
Double the observer gain and/or use 500us as time constant T. These settings can be found in motor config, FOC. After changing T, press Calc Apply Old and write the setting.
You can also try 250us and quadruple the observer gain. It’s a bit try and error… After a change, always try things out with very low amp settings and work your way up in amps.
You will at speed and going up hill.
Gamer43 is correct.
Watts = battery amps * battery volts
or
Watts = motor amps * duty cycle * battery volts. That screenshot is at 5% duty cycle so 200w makes sense.
Functionally, none of this matters. Watts on electric motors is more of a marketing term. The motor will take as much power as it needs which could be much less or much more than the “rating” which usually has some sort of heat dissipation factor built into it. The wattage rating can also be set to comply with laws even if it’s nowhere near it’s true rating. There is no standard in how they are rated.
Have you tried riding it? How does it perform? What gauge wire does the motor have? That will help determine motor amps. 45 motor amps is a bit low, 60-70 would probably be better.
I have some experience with these controllers and there is some good info on various setups including scooters in this thread. We are currently running a 75100V201 and a 75100V202 on two different ebikes using FW 5.3. They perform surprisingly well for the price. The 20s bike runs 100 battery and 100 motor amps. With 40A of field weakening it can hit 38mph with impressive acceleration. The 13s bike runs 30 battery and 60 motor amps (limitations of the battery and motor). The biggest drawback is the poor thermals at high sustained amps. Two on a scooter sharing the load might be perfect though.
40A field weakening top speed run. Good way to view motor / battery amp relationship.
Power = Voltage x Current
You won’t have a high voltage until the motor speed increases. Which will allow a high power.
It’s can’t go up a hill tho. It can barely move it’s own weight on a flat surface. It’s a 3000w motor, so it can handle it. Is there a way to stop the voltage drop?
I know, but it should be pushing 45amps at 60 volts through the motor.
What version of the board are you running? 75100v201 or 75100v202? What firmware?
Try running the 5.3 firmware I linked in my post above.
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I’m running the new boards on 5.3 firmware. It says 75_300_R2 in the hardware version, so I’m not sure if that’s the right one.
Would it be worth opening the controller to look at the hardware version?
Not sure why your comments got flagged, but that’s the V202. That firmware wasn’t fully compatible with the ESC in my opinion.
Follow the instructions here to load the 5.3 for the 75100V202.
You can take off one of the side covers to look at the circuit board color to be sure.
I loaded your firmware and did the motor setup, but the motor is still incredibly weak. Why would it not run 3000w through the motor?
On my old Chinese controllers that came with the scooter they were able to run it at full power and could actually go up hills. I stopped using them because they would always break. I’ve been working on this scooter for 5 months total, and I just want to get it in a state that it works.
You can also try with 5.2. Someone said it had better torque, but I’m not sure. Also try turning up motor amps to 60-70
It can’t do that if the motor isn’t spinning fast enough to reach 60V.
If you’re troubleshooting, you might try running a stable firmware version instead of a beta version like 5.3
It’s rated for 45amps at 60v. I just got a multimeter out, and it’s only pushing 1v through the motor.
I try rolling back my firmware though.