Riding
I am stopping it from moving by just holding it back with one hand.
Did you go through detection, yes to defaults. And then settings the S count of your battery in the wizard?
Vescs can do weird shit sometimes
Strange it says speed is 0 while you are drawing power
Electric motors don’t produce power at zero speed (neither do gas engines for that matter).
Power is speed * torque.
That 200W is being dissipated as heat inside the motor.
Motor controller steps down the voltage and regulates current through the motor, so yes, the motor is only seeing 5V because if it saw the full 68V it would melt and catch fire.
I suspect you also have sluggish acceleration, but that a completely different can of worms.
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Some background info on the VESC-Tool settings.
I said no to defaults because the vesc i use has no phase filtering, and yes I put the 16 is in the setup.
I was holding it back with my hand.
My motor is set to 45A and so is my battery. the weird part is that there is no way that is is drawing 45 amps and I can hold it back with my hand. The battery voltage was at 68v, so it should be able to deliver 3000w, but somehow its stuck at 200w, but still draws 45amps??
Not sure what’s up with these units. They were designed by some guy as a hobby project and then copied by flipsky… till very recently flipsky didn’t even have acess to the firmware sources. It was the community that somehow organised the source files, so that firmwares can be compiled.
Would I be better off contacting flipsky?
Load default parameters, run a detection, then switch off phase filters.
I’ve already done that maybe 10 times…
I’ll give it another try though
Double the observer gain and/or use 500us as time constant T. These settings can be found in motor config, FOC. After changing T, press Calc Apply Old and write the setting.
You can also try 250us and quadruple the observer gain. It’s a bit try and error… After a change, always try things out with very low amp settings and work your way up in amps.
You will at speed and going up hill.
Gamer43 is correct.
Watts = battery amps * battery volts
or
Watts = motor amps * duty cycle * battery volts. That screenshot is at 5% duty cycle so 200w makes sense.
Functionally, none of this matters. Watts on electric motors is more of a marketing term. The motor will take as much power as it needs which could be much less or much more than the “rating” which usually has some sort of heat dissipation factor built into it. The wattage rating can also be set to comply with laws even if it’s nowhere near it’s true rating. There is no standard in how they are rated.
Have you tried riding it? How does it perform? What gauge wire does the motor have? That will help determine motor amps. 45 motor amps is a bit low, 60-70 would probably be better.
I have some experience with these controllers and there is some good info on various setups including scooters in this thread. We are currently running a 75100V201 and a 75100V202 on two different ebikes using FW 5.3. They perform surprisingly well for the price. The 20s bike runs 100 battery and 100 motor amps. With 40A of field weakening it can hit 38mph with impressive acceleration. The 13s bike runs 30 battery and 60 motor amps (limitations of the battery and motor). The biggest drawback is the poor thermals at high sustained amps. Two on a scooter sharing the load might be perfect though.
40A field weakening top speed run. Good way to view motor / battery amp relationship.
Power = Voltage x Current
You won’t have a high voltage until the motor speed increases. Which will allow a high power.
It’s can’t go up a hill tho. It can barely move it’s own weight on a flat surface. It’s a 3000w motor, so it can handle it. Is there a way to stop the voltage drop?
I know, but it should be pushing 45amps at 60 volts through the motor.
What version of the board are you running? 75100v201 or 75100v202? What firmware?
Try running the 5.3 firmware I linked in my post above.