Hey guys,
I have a flipsky dual 6.6 and just set up the motors in foc.
Went into this menu as I want to change the values of the motor:
And my question is (I know it’s a seriously stupid question, but just wanted to make sure) — do I plug the cable into the micro usb on both sides 1 and 2, and split the values of battery max and regen? I know it has to be done when having 2 separate vescs running the wizard individually, but does the same apply here?
Thanks in advance guys.
I don’t think this is a stupid question, you would split this between both fsescs.
So I got everything to work but I found that the brakes are not exactly as strong as I want them to be. I’m running TB 110s on a 36-16 ratio with ppm current no reverse as of now (I know it’s speed oriented), but I think they should be a little better.
These are my values per motor:
Motor max: 70 A
Motor min: -70 A
Battery max: 25 A
Battery regen: -7.5 A
10s4p 30q for reference
If I change to current with reverse, could the brakes increase in strength? I came from a boosted board where (in my opinion), the breaks were phenomenal, and I liked that the motors reversed to brake.
Any veterans that can chime in a bit? @BillGordon @mmaner @Dareno @J0ker @CiscoV
Decrease batt min value
Make that -12, then -15, then -20. Quit when it’s right.
What will this do exactly?
And what’s the max I can go on it?
Thanks guys
Allow more power to be regenerated / accepted by the battery (think opposite of increasing batt max). Use search function there is info on here about this.
That affects brakes high in the throttle range.
Motor min will help low down but
Current with reverse can dramatically increase braking and you may need it because you are running very tall gearing. @malJohann
You have experience with current reverse do you not sir?
Yeah, I plan on switching to a 40-16 ratio soon, but was looking for a fix as when I hit that 35 mph speed and try to brake, its game over
Will tweak the battery regen and see what happens
What’s the highest I can go on that. What’s the rule of thumb for batteries?
“Current” mode (reverse implied) gives better brakes, because the ESC wants to change direction at low speed, but then my values and setup is far from normal. @glyphiks also concurs though that “Current” mode gives better brakes, matter of fact that’s where I got the idea from.
Als gonna be all bent now I called on you and not him. Cheers mate. Way to go bro.
@NatS
Regen is going to pump amps back into the battery so rule of thumb is not to exceed the max charging rate per cell x p count. Saying that its a rare occasion that if you overdo it will you cause damage. Think long hill and holding brakes on the whole time so you can safely overdo it a bit. All my 4 p’s run -12 a side which in effect should pump 24 amps into the battery which should only be capable of 16. 30 q are 4 per cell but someone correct me if i am wrong by all means. 30 q are rated 15 discharge but most run them safely at 20. As @mmaner said earlier get them up a bit and see where you need to be and @b264 i know in reality its a negative number so it’s actually lowering but bollocks.
Running 30qs at 20a regularly will seriously deplete their lifecycle, but they handle it fine.
One note on current mode… if you have traction control on and lose traction with one wheel while braking, that wheel will most likely come to a full stop and start going in reverse… traction control will apply the same action to the other wheel(s)… its scary as shit 
Yet another call to @Trampa and @Deodand , is it possible to have traction control disabled while braking?
Yeah nah to that. Skateboards are meant to go forwards.
Lol. It is fucking awesome for low speed braking. And for full bindings.
Sounds like a great way to strip your wheel gear.
Especially with my big heavy lump on it. With the right settings you can shred a belt on full braking. Hate to try that on gear drives. Bye bye pom
Me and the wheel gear.
Lol, yeah i should probably experiment with some different modes… or give up traction control.
Best option would be usage of the IMU to determine the full stand still.
Its funny but when i read all this stuff and look at what i do?
I am in the stone age compared to what you guys are up to.
You guys are ripping round in skyline gtrs with all the computer shit and i have Twin webbers.
Literally
In the immortal words of Bob Seger
I like that old time rock and roll.
How? Is this something that can be implemented into the standard FW? Its pretty dangerous
That kinda music just soothes the soul…
Seriously, I kinda know how you feel. While I’m familiar with programming typical (ie. RC) ESCs, I haven’t got a clue when it comes to VESCs…and, to think, I’ve been custom-building computers (mostly for gaming) for people for over 25 years (yeah, I know ‘hardware’, but I don’t know $h!t about programming). After a 40yr absense from riding, I decided to “get back into the game”…albeit, only Esk8 (no more ‘regular’ boards, as I’m too old for that). My first board is a Backfire G2 Black…and, while it’s fantastic for a “short-distance runabout”, I’ve been looking to get something for much longer rides…maybe even ride it in the monthly Bike Coalition rides (since they started alowing PEVs). While I haven’t ordered whatever is to become my 2nd board, a (very?) strong consideration is the Eovan GTS Carbon Super…which, as ‘chance’ has it, contains a VESC 6.0. To “help” me, I have a few questions (this is directed to all readers, not just the “classic rock inclined”.
First, (this is really directed to anyone already owning the GTS Carbon Super), for anyone who’s ‘checked out’ the programming on the GTS Carbon Super’s VESC, would it be best to “leave things alone”, and ride it as-programmed…or, is there a “better” programming setup? My ‘goal’ is NOT to obtain ridiculous speeds, or to carve as if I’m snowboarding - my ‘goal’ is extra-long rides, at a very ‘casual’ (15-20mph, but closer to 15mph) speed. Of note - I’m currently a bit on the “heavy” side (approx 230lbs), but am working on getting slightly below 200lbs. IF changing the VESCs programming is ‘best’, what would the best programming tool be to use? And, if anyone can provide such, what would the ‘best’ settings be (taking into consideration my riding ‘goal’).
With that said…and, to quote another ‘rock great’, “Hit me with your best shot”.
