Looking for advice on tuning with FOC. I have always been a sensored hybrid bldc guy.
Yesterday I upgraded my vesc to a 6.6 dual mini and my motors to 170kv 6380.
I programmed the vesc with FOC and am enjoying it, but my brakes are garbage…
With bldc I could lock up the rear end no problem, with foc my breathing distance to stop is terrible.
Looking for ideas on how to improve the brakes.
Also would love to hear how to get more power out of FOC. As bldc hybrid seemed to have much more instant torque.
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Just stay with bldc than?
If you want to go FOC non the less, than what are your actual settings right now and which battery you are rocking?
From this we can start tuning.
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12s4p 30q battery.
I’m at work at the moment, so no access to settings.
From what I remember.
Motor 70a,
Brakes 45a
Battery 29a
Regen -8a
What other settings do you need? I’ll get them this eve
Try upping
Brakes to 60a
Regen -10
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Dual, thanks dekoz
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Or you can do like @Trampa suggest and set the settings similar. - 60 motor brake and - 60 batt. It will give you good brakes and wear out your battery way way quicker than anything else you do with it (seriously, don’t do this) 
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Good brakes are needed in any case. There is no magic setting that evaporates energy into the universe. It is as simple as that.
The setting has nothing to do with battery life btw.
If you want to put your own life before the life of your battery that is your choice.
We don’t recommend to go down that line.
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It’s like saying charge your batteries with 5C when the ones that made it specified 1C charge current. Of course, without doubt, this will degrade your battery faster at best. Start a thermal runaway at worst.
If you need more brakes then use a battery that is built for the charge current you need.
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It’s just spikes really. No issue for the modern cells we use. 1C is continuous charge, which we don’t do when hitting brakes. The value you specify as Batt Current Regen is not the Amps you battery sees in esk8 applications. No one would pull full brakes at full speed and that is the only scenaro where you could create the currents specified. Your board would stop and you would fly.
Actually, if the battery is big enough, it will collapse into itself and reach the point of Hawking radiation emission, which will do almost exactly that.
But you’d probably need a battery with about a million times the mass of the Sun.
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I do exactly that all the time.
It’s because of the magic of setting the “battery min” greater than the “motor min”, like -45A motor min and -13A battery min, for example.
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True, but then your brakes get non linear and there is no reason to do that.
On a steep slope, the brakes need to be strong enough to work at speed reliably.
That is the ultimate test for your brakes. If you ride on the flat and you can pull full brakes without issues, they are probably not god enough for a steep hill.
Naturally the Amp limiter is your thumb, not braking harder than needed. And if you need to brake harder, you are happy for the extra brakes.
Actually, I would prefer that there exists no trigger position such that at full speed, it causes the board to stop, and me to Superman off the nose.
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My bike would do the same to me if I would pull full brakes at speed. Good brakes saved my life in the past and I would never ever pull the brakes harder than needed.
First someone want to do a wormhole with ESK8 components, now a black hole?
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See alot of people hanging on to the max cont. like its concrete. Braking can definetly not be considered a continuous behaviour. A short spike of current larger then your C-rating wont make or break your battery life.
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I’m running at 200% of the max fast charge rating but unsure how much I can turn that up as no one has ever done proper tests as fare as I know. I’m guessing the only way to tell is see if the battry heats up or brakes
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This one so much. That’s also why I don’t like all the constant discharge curves everybody is referring to as the one and only. Yes it’s an indicator of what a cell can deliver, but it doesn’t represent our discharge pattern we use on our boards.
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Even if somebody would have tested it, it can be totally different for other riders. One might drive mainly on flat others need to brake down a long hill… so 
What I found out from me recordings, the actual bat min current I reached while braking was still far from the actual setting on my vescs. For example if set to -50A (2x25A) I reached only 26A while hard braking on flat.
I was referring to testing battery’s at high pulse charges can you put 10a in to a q30 for 15sec plus every 60 seconds repeat 10 times will it thermal run away