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I think a good aftermarket product to make for the v2 would be a separated plastic housing out of higher quality material, aluminum for the structural part below the pivot pillow bearing.
and possibly a bash guard that covers the slip ring. An additional idea I had was to add a cheap slew bearing or a rubber gasket to seal the slip rings.
It kinda all wraps up into a single replacement part, the main challenge would be matching the concave of the deck which is not reflected in my current model.
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This tells me I need some adjustment somewhere, because the brushes that go in that space are supposed to be 4mm tall, and they should be compressed very little to none when the axle is centered. It relies on a few degree slop in the pivot bearing caused by weight on the offset wheel to allow one set of 3 brushes to get extremely good contact at all times even when they are not perfectly adjusted. That set of 3 is compressed below 4mm, where they are supposed to be set when doing maintenance.
1.5mm wrong somewhere
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wow a 50mm motor fits in there perfectly, the stock 5045 motor specifically fits between those two motor plates so it could be completely enclosed.
I would rather go with the cutout and a 50100 tho
Wait does nobody make 50mm motors longer than 65mm??
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This is essentially “my manufacturable” version of this:
^they made this all into one solid piece somehow with like laser welding.
I changed that stepped shaft into a solid shaft with a spacer.
the bolts heads just barely fit hopefully
So this would be the main complex part to make.
forgive the terrible corner cutouts, I have no idea what I’m doing
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I have some ideas for how to make the wheel be on a live axle (shaft) using a very DIY approach and how to make bearing blocks using a half 3d printed part.
too tired to explain will edit in here
Those corner cutouts could make it easier to machine. It may not, but it could, if you could increase the diameter of the smallest endmill needed to machine it.
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Those cutouts don’t need to be nearly that deep I think I’m just not sure how to draw that exactly at the moment
definitely not getting a wrench in there haha so need to be a stuck nut or however you call it
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Constrain the center of a circle to the corner, extrude a cut with only the part of the circle that’s over the material
I’ve been following this topic with interest, you are doing some cool stuff here bro.
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Thanks dude! I am having quite the kick in motivation recently with ordering a 3D printer an all. Time spent modeling the leiftech v2 was very rewarding and I really need to save up for a SBX so it can give it the same touch with the ol’ calipers 
I’m gonna need the same model with the SR360 for when I’m adding it onto the 5-X
When the 5-X truck are in stock on freebordeurope.com you need to make a video of trying them out on your SBX!!
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Yeah I’m planning to switch my whole setup to a freebord 5 if I’m honest, deck, bindings and trucks!
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Those inside corners are going to make that really expensive. See if you can design it without those. You can’t cut those with an endmill.
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soory it was funny I have no idea hot it got like that all I did was add that square
it actually looks like this:
thinking about adding a bolt there but my plan is to permanently bond the metal together with your favorite, JB weld.
also
I just hit the jackpot
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ok this is my solution to having to use dead axle on skateboard wheel.
The blacked colored bearings will be taken apart and filled with JB weld, and the inside+outside filed to rough them up.
Then the axle would also have grooves cut in it and would be all be glued together forever hopefully.
Those plates are 3mm, the bearing seat is 2mm. there is what I call a bearing cup that would screw on to hold the bearings in place extra secure.
may require resin printing
3:30 am cad never again
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I would maybe just epoxy ONE of the bearings internally, to the axle, and also epoxy it into the wheel core itself. Let the other bearing float.
Just an idea.
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I was basically thinking of pouring the entire core solid, and cutting up the shaft like so:
not sure why I would leave one bearing intact, care to explain your thinking?
oh so you mean glue in one side with the shaft and fill it up then pop the other bearing on. That would be good because then I could check inside later to see if it was coming loose! Or glue the other bearing on.
@alexincorsica do you think this pulley will scrape the ground? It is the biggest I think it can be (32t htd5m)