While I am here I have to update on this idea. I got the RC CELLMETER and its nifty and all, balances with like 1mA current max haha. So I will be trying to combine it with a 8S bms that connects easily to 8S modules then making the PD supply that connects to this cell display plus bms setup.
The reason I think you need the display is so your can confirm that modules you are combining are all fully charged and balanced. Where if you just looked at 0 current draw the bms could have cut off and the batt is not full.
Small little headsup for those PD daughter boards, they don’t work with all chargers. I have a 65W Anker GaN charger and while it will output 20V with no load, as soon as I connect a boost converter it cuts the connection. I haven’t investigated any further, so your milage may vary.
The way this doesn’t seem to always work out, or you have to question where the issue is from the PD supply or drawing device OR C cable… Does not fill me with hope for when we might have a 48V USB thing going on.
Usually called “trigger modules” or “USB C PD decoy”
It’s also not clear to me if anyone in this thread had already any success? I went so far as to connect the boost converter, has anyone here done the same with different results?
Wayyyyyy back when yes.
Also maybe FlexiCharger USB-PD, concept stage person who knows.
@Battery_Mooch I must ask if you would foresee any huge issues with just wiring up a DC DC booster to your charge port inside the enclosure and leaving it. Then you can use a normal 12S 6A charger or also could use a USB C → 20V DC jack possibly. I just feel like there must be a real good reason I have never seen this tried.
Afaik we still don’t know what’s Inside this box. What’s in the box, Jerry?!
It’s delicate and adds cost, weight, and takes up a lot of enclosure space…all to just allow the use of a USB PD block instead of a standard power supply. Not many people would go for that IMO.
Also, most of the inexpensive boost converters are overrated barely stable junk. Buy if you don’t stress them, the USB power is well within the boost converter’s input voltage range, and you provide a ton of cooling and shock/vibration protection there’s technically nothing to stop someone from doing this.
My personal opinion though it’s not really worth it until 200W-240W USB PD adapters are available at a decent price. 90W charging (using a 100W USB adapter minus efficiency losses during boost) just isn’t worth hauling around a boost converter for.
Not only PD input. Also you could hook directly to other DC sources like 12V or 24V from an automobile. Possibly solar but I have no idea if there are any special solar stuff you want in a mppt dcdc.
I am fully aware currently :ha: we’re not getting a lot of charging ability or really even much convenience compared to the amount of work and sacrifice put in. I am sort of thinking someone could build and test a system like that and have it ready to basically plug and play with 48V USB stuff when it finally shows up.
I was curious, guessing that diodes on charge ports like will be used on Floatwheel ADV will make this not possible.
Maybe this could be used and allow that boosting charge port feature still.
Using a MOSFET charge port protector or a diode shouldn’t have any effect on a “universal input” voltage to boost converter setup.
Seems to be a lot of “why even do this” in this thread from the start… we all got our own niche use cases. I’m tryna build something I can take when fly overseas for long term contract work, and I fly with limited suitcase weight/space. A hefty power pack is a big one to cut down on, not to mention the convenience of usb c charging when you don’t care about charing speed 
@Linesflag seems you’ve got the exact issue I’m facing, shit! Two macbook power supplies and a satechi one as well shutting down as soon as I turn up the boost converter current draw (I guess just charging the capacitors is enough to shit bricks)
You sure its the power supply and not the decoy? I figure it cant be the boost cos that works off a battery in. I’ve got a different type of decoy in the mail (not an adjustable one) that I’m hoping to work with…
The problems you all are having is exactly why, when I ran into that issue I switched to finding modules like the bidirectional 4S PD powerbank PCB sort of thing.
like this?
are you just taking a raw 20v output from the b+ b- and plugging that into a boost converter, or doing something fancy with the 4s bms lines?
Your question is honestly super confusing. The bidirectional module doesn’t include BMS on the PCB.
The 4S battery is 16.8V, supposedly the module will boost output to 20V but idk about that working at 100W 5+A input…
Then when you connect one of these modules to another of the same I hope they could communicate which one has higher voltage and make it output, but it’s possible they would both try putting out 20V and no charging would happen… idek this is not mentioned anywhere I think.
No idea, I just said fuck it and left it at that. Couldn’t find enough motivation to get a it again, yet. You’d probably need a small resistor or something to reduce inrush current, but I’m a ME, not an EE, so I’m just talking out of my ass.
Hey guys I saw this earlier and it may help with your USB C charging adventures.
A new 270w USB C charger. One port does 140w!
It’s a bit pricey and bulkier than you typical USB charger but I think it still has advantages.
Currently only on indigogo for $119
Zeus: World's First Mini 270W GaN USB-C Charger | Indiegogo
Or retail for $219
I’m thinking of doing the same with my old 30q pack
Theres also a solution that I looked into 2 years ago that wasn’t on the market yet, but now has become available:
Wireless charging up to like 300w
Würth Elektronik has different kits for that. If I didn’t already have a hole for a charging port in my enclosure I’d totally switch to that