Makes sense, I dont have to mangle the ESC with using the default holes, the motor cables have slack.
The Bullets make it an easy drive-train swap.
I see, very interesting design. Are the two bolt holes strong enough?
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I get pretty dumb, and never had this thing come off.
I have flipped the board out of a halfpipe which lead to the shell blowing off.
The bottom plate was fine and the ESC was still heatsink taped to the plate.
Even with the shell busted up, the plate holds. So if anything I may need to work out
a strong shell, but the plate is gold from my test.
I very much like your idea, and love love love the use of bushings.
I think its a 10/10 tbh. I just wanted to share what I have been abusing.
EDIT: I think instead of bushings, I used a riser.
So we are kinda thinking similar imo. 
More ESC Case testing 8 stairs and ramps!
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Is that a retaliation? I tried so hard to get my hands on one but only found a used one, I went with the pro 97 instead. Super jealous haha. Sweet riding. Thanks so much for all the feedback.
I think the benefit of the bushings would be that the case/shell can take a more substantial impact.
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yep! also have a new one downstairs. I think Im going to keep it mint. 
I think thatâs the important qualification. Thereâs people running junction boxes, fiberglass, or even 3D printed enclosures out there. I donât think they would stand up to the strain from the flex.
Theyâve been used for turning yes, but in this case youâre literally compressing the entire thing and not just a single side, and theyâre not necessarily designed for that use. Theyâre hard enough to squish a quarter of an inch down from tightening the kingpin, I donât think any deck flex will be enough to deform them sufficiently unless theyâre extremely soft.
It has to be purpose designed for the application. Mine, for example, is purpose designed for the first proposed mounting holes. I would not want to change it to a front to back style.
Also, no I donât think the three tiny holes make it any more flexible @NullBlox you have the right idea but I think theyâre such a small percentage of the total flexing areas that it likely doesnât affect it very much
Interesting thoughts here for sure
I vouch for this, I dont use bushing in my enclosure setupâs and it has pretty much the same flex. I used the bushing on my mockup to mimic what others had been doing.
My builds are just bolted into threaded inserts through the pelican.
If you print correctly and with the right materials for the job, I see no issues with
a 3DP part vs an injection molded one. I print in NylonGlass and is pretty much the same
material as the pelican. You can hit my pulleys like baseballs with a bat and will only dent
them as would an injection molded one. You also need a saw to cut through the material
when its done and printed.
I think when most hear 3DP many think the worst of it.
I agree here, 3D printed parts can be incredibly strong. I have printed in 80% infill for my yobis and I can stand on them, Im a big guy too. When it comes to enclosures, I think a 3d printed esc enclosure is pretty standard. But for batteries, I would want something a little more rigid. Not many people have printers that can print a battery enclosure in one go either, which would result in a poorly structured final product.
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Cant disagree with this. Great points!
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But for those with the design expertise and fusion of technologies, there can be some great options
I have had good success with mine, however, I do have a big printer and a lot of knowledge to back it up. Itâs not a simple thing. Not like slapping on a pelican haha
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Just wanted to thank you for your videos on the Boardnamics m1 at, I went with this option.
For battery mounting id love to see some kind of baseplate that mounts to the binding holes on the inside. I know there is a ton of stress in the middle of decks so it would have to be non intrusive to the deck characteristics.
Edit: I hate, hate drilling decks. Ive had my hand in making a few and it pains me to see a beautiful deck get drilled.
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Sure thing man, Iâve been really enjoying them. I might make a review on them sometime, will add it to the list
Like the actual binding mounts? Those are pretty far apart arenât they?
Haha I feel, it is difficult sometimes. Inserts are definitely less obtrusive than through-deck bolts. However, the three in the middle donât feel as bad since you barely see them. I could understand wanting a different option
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Yes they areâŚ, Im thinking like two brackets that extend diagonally and towards the center of the deck, with two strap loops so a case could be strapped through them. I get the insert option too, and also the option of strapping around the whole deck. Idk. Needs more thought.
Im a fan of limited work bench operations and velcro and straps is easier than installing inserts or worse yet accidentally drilling through the whole deck.
Edit: I use inserts for my street board so itâs a little hypocritical. However I had the luxury of getting my board drilled by Subsonic.
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Im getting together a small batch of cases, similar to the one I posted here. It will use aluminum for the base components and some type of plastic (not 3d printed) for the enclosure and lid. The kit will include 2 bases, an enclosure and lid, bushings, and kingpins and nuts.
It will include bolts, washers, and threaded inserts for the lid. The price will be affordable around tbd 60 - 80 dollars. Tell your friends, might look great with apex airs or trampa IRâs.
Edit : price target may not be met as design work continues.
For an actual universal standard, youâd want something simple, strong, and quick.
Something like a french cleat / dovetail / picatinny rail. Mount it end to end or side to side - the orientation can still be configurable based on board flex, size/space, and construction. Standardizing orientation is unnecessary.
Fasten the rail clamp to the bottom of the enclosure. Fasten the rail itself to the board. Add rubber washers beneath the rail. Picatinny rails are already standardized, utterly proven, come in metric (the NATO upgraded version), are very low profile, and have a million parts already available in aluminum for lightweight, strong, quick attachment.
Donât reinvent the wheel.
In particular for just the esc, you barely need strength at all. you could 3d print a rail and itâd probably hold up just fine.
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The esc case needs to be strong, and be able to take an impact, use what you may.
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Would it be possible to put threaded inserts in the deck and use thumbscrews to secure something like a peli 1050 to those inserts? This way, you can just release the esc enclosure in 10 seconds with your fingers and it would be toolless.
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of course, as mentioned earlier I do not like drilling decks, just my take at an enclosure.
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Ah damnit I missed that. I scrolled through to make sure something like that wasnât mentioned but clearly I cant read.
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