That’s basically what Trampa does.
I tried it out! Need to reprint the lid but the case can be removed from the deck without undoing the trucks, and the bushings provide great dampening.
This same approach could be applied to a battery box.
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Hmm I’d be a little worried if the board flipped or anything. Looks like it would snap right off since there’s so much room for movement.
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it bends down and touches the deck without snapping but only time will tell.
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I suppose thinner bushings could be used
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Is there any way to put the “fins” on the sides of the box itself, rather than the base? That way you could offset the entire thing downwards while still using the same hardware. Plus you could make the fin itself thicker without increasing the floor thickness.
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Do you think you could elaborate more, I appreciate your feedback. As in bushings running horizontal to the box?
edit: I see what you mean now, bring the box lower by moving the fins up, great suggestion, though the thinner bushings did make a difference.
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well that fit damn great in there! I hope to see this idea evolve to a standard.
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The problem with this design is that I Can only fit a Stormcore or similar sized esc’s with the platform waterborne made, any base bigger than this would become cumbersome. A design for a universal esc is what im after.
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what dimension do you mean, the center distance of the bushing mount kingpins? I was thinking if you needed to you could make the enclosure wider and thin down in the middle between the escs. If you did not want to buy/make shorter bushings you could make the esc enclosure drop down as well maybe.
to save the most space if you design a bushing riser esc mount from scratch you could have threads/nuts on the deck/truck base side and socket head bolts going down through bushings. No bushings sticking up then although they look cool. Lastly no bolts sticking up when the esc case is off.
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The drop down is a great idea, and yeah the distance between the two kingpins is a little shy for say a fesc 6.6. Im thinking (if this is what you meant) to make the enclosure both wider and longer and have the enclosure conform to the bushings where it needs to. Ive already slapped on thin bushings but to make this for anyone I would want to use a standard bushing, this is where the drop down can come into play.
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good idea on saving space, I really don’t want to have to drill decks for inserts but your feedback has been great.
Edit: I see threads on the base plate
Now you’ve got me thinking - would you even need the top bushing? I would assume the bottom one would be sufficient. In doing that you could make the nut captive in the baseplate on the top one and unscrew it from the bottom, since it looks like it sticks out from the deck anyways. This will open up width for larger ESCs as you can keep the top flat.
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when the case flexes side to side the top bushing does provide some good dampening, but making the case flat would cool.
I really, really like the idea of having the nuts held in by the baseplate, and unscrewing the whole bolt so there are no death kingpins sticking up when the esc is not on.
I have a few thoughts on this and idea’s.
First off we need a standard bolting pattern on the decks.
Center from Rail to Rail is only good for some boards that use more than wood only.
Center Rail to Rail can cause break’s when board-sliding.
In general its more stress across an area than is commonly used on MTB.
Just because you don’t use this area does not mean we should forget about it.
We should gear for the future of what is, can and will be possible.
I propose we start bolting in three the other direction.
I have yet to see any properly made skateboard split in this direction ever.
This may look a bit odd but I have no time to fully work this out currently.
So take it with a gain of salt.
The Red is bushing.
The gears would be used for your fingers to tighten down the three bolts.
This can be used on the Rail to Rail way or the Tail to Nose way as suggested.
So I left nobody out.
On the Box you connect the plate with bushings for a riser.
This bushing riser area lets you access the gearing bolts to remove from the deck or put onto the deck.
Yes this is still a bolt release but I dont trust a clip.
Four screws is simple to do, install this to the box you use.
We can have many bolting patterns on that plate. Then the
gearing bolts allow you to hand tighten the plate to the board.
Basically the plate goes on all boxes and works with the pattern now and a nose to tail pattern.
Its just a idea. will it work… idk… but the bolting direction is a issue for all wooden boards.
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Wasn’t the reason against having them parallel to the deck due to deck flex? You’d be putting a lot of force on the enclosure every time you land on something since the middle would be pulled downwards but the sides upwards. It’d be particularly bad on flexy decks like Trampas, and I don’t think the bushings would be able to handle that much differential.
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I use four bolts no bushings and I do boardslides.
It has no effect. 3 would be fine so long as the enclosure is as tuff as a pelican.
I suppose it could reduce flex but with the right bushings should still allow flex.
I know mine will still flex with the four bolts. but this is a Bro not a Trampa.
The idea above would work for both pattern’s.
We using bushing on trucks, they allow a ton of turn forces.
I think its been proven otherwise.
I understand this but also dont.
We have more weight in the middle, yet we want to make holes across the deck when its flexy…
Would the holes not make it more flexy… also more prone to breaking in the middle from normal
hopping etc…?
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Ive worked out a few issues on the esc end. The inside dimensions are much larger and the box sits lower, the kingpins are screwed in downward and the nuts are held into the base.
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^ I like this, but not sure why the current bolt hole dont work?..
I have had no issues with this type of setup.
I have a TPU spacer/bushing to raise the plate from chattering on the other hardware.
This is simple and takes, your current skate tools.
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The goal was to be able to take the enclosure off to access the bolt holes without having to mangle the esc. I have a set up just like that and every time I need to work on the board I have to take the esc out of the case. My above design just needs a skate tool to undo the case from the board.
And to be fair, I’ve had no issues with that setup either other than it can be a pain.