@glyphiks for big scooter tires maybe look at Lorentz board for parts? They do sell 10x3in complete wheel.
Edit: Revskateboard also have 8.5 in scooter tires + hubs. But theyāll cost a pretty penny, almost $600 just for the hubs.
1 Like
Yeah i did look at the rev ones but that price is hard to swallowā¦
Those Lorentz ones look pretty good! Iād so much rather buy something off the shelf than fuck around trying to cobble shit together.
Thanks @MichaelWA, these are now top (read 1 of 1) of the shortlist for wheels!
Are there any other known hub options for 10 inch?
Iāve ran 10ā tires on fivestars before with no issue.
1 Like
Hmm i very much like the idea of the 6 inch hub rather than the 4, the tire options seem a lot better
1 Like
Iād expect a 6 inch tire for a scooter to be built better, require less balancing weights, and have less wobble and runout.
The inexpensive 4.10-3.50-4 Handtruck tires on Fionaās chariot are pretty wobbly.
The 9ā 2.80/2.50-4 Kenda K473ās, my second set, are almost perfect, wobble/runout wise, but the first set, one of them had some wobble and runout I was unable to get rid of.
The first set of K473ās and the 4.10ās started their rotational life on different rims, and required careful centering before inflation. Later, after ~2000 miles, transferring them to the Five stars pinched their sidewalls by 4mm more, but no centering was required, and the one Kendaās runout and wobble got slightly worse.
1 Like
These are the only other ones i can find, i think i prefer the look of the Lorentz ones tho
1 Like
hell ya, will be fun to see what you come up with as this develops dude. super long range is such a fun build - min maxing a build jells best with me fsr - just more exciting.
4wd will not sip on that battery. It will help with breaking such a beast but I would expect a drop in range on any 4wd setup. From what Iāve seen itās in the 30-40%+ drop in efficiency but thatās just a guess based on general anecdotes.
if you are set on 4wd you probably will be able to sit around 30-45 wh/km where 2wd will be in the 15-30 range if it follows the performance of my Bog Roosh 18s8p 50s on 6485 reachers on gear drives.
likely you can find a cell similar to the 50s cells i used where they have significantly more capacity when not pressed to their limits. LinkData65P looks like the spiritual successor currently for high capacity/ middle output power cells so Iām gonna use them for this little thought experiment: just using the same capacity curve (20a a cell) that i used on the 50s puts you really close to 5ah a cell usable output so 60ah battery or 3888wh (64.8v*60ah) where the bog roosh gets about 2kwh from a fully toped up battery.
currently Iām getting about 80km of range from the battery as i exceed 45kph regularly but about 120km if i keep it under 45kph as the 50s cells take a serious hit once i start pulling more amps. if you keep on the 12p track you can take advantage of the lower draw per cell to keep the real range higher but if you decide to go to a lower p count for whatever reason the penalty for going faster/harder gets lower on the the high output tabless cells. Iām planning on using rs50 or 50xg on the bog roosh battery rebuild for faster charging and less restricting performance envelope when Iām going on a marathon ride.
if you go with a 4wd setup id expect you to get somewhere in the 100km per charge at normal pace but 130km ish if you need to stretch it on long legs where there isnāt charging available by keeping a mellow pace. 2wd will be close to double that i think just from increased efficiency. has to be fun though and 4wd is fun 
chargers: 4kw charger, interface is great and output is tested and the gui is well developed. lots of these and the smaller 4830 based chargers in Seattle with only minimal failures. so few that when i was asking around in the big (200+ active members) pev chat i could only find one that had failed that I could cannibalize for science. roger charger has an app but its absolutely not necessary and i love that - not everything needs an app ffs
2 Likes
What are your daily distance goals? In my various long rides Iāve found that 40 mile legs were the limit of my feet before I needed to stop for an hour to charge. Maybe you can get more on larger tires?
Itās fun and exciting to use the newest and best cells, but Iād argue even 18s12p with a (cheaper) 5ah cell (60ah battery pack) your feet will typically still be done before your battery is. Like Mike said, fast charging is a must on high mile days.
1 Like
Thanks for such a great post!!
Definitely set on 4wd. Two big reasons, the biggest being redundancy. If a belt breaks on 2wd iām going to be severely compromised in the moments immediately following the break and iāll take the safety net there over the efficiency gains any day of the week. The other is accel and braking. Want that extra power available, especially as such long distances will require riding with traffic.
Similarly with the charging situation, iād rather use 4 x 1kw chargers rather than a single 4kw. A single 4kw charger limits me to only charging at car chargers, whereas if i used the 4 singles, i could still use the car charging stations, but i could also use/max out whatever regular power points i have available to me. This approach also minimises the inconvenience of a broken charger as iād still be able to charge, just a bit slower.
I think your range estimates are pretty accurate but iām thinking i can keep that wh/km down towards the lower numbers with lower power modes and a feather thumb. As far as cell choice goes, iām willing to pay the premium for latest and greatest, definitely want to try and fit in the 12p but would settle for 11p if itās going to make the build too tight/difficult.
I think @SternWake is on the right track with leaving the cell choice and battery build until the very end, to maximise my chances of being able to use better cells and/or get them at a cheaper price. I think realistically allowing 20a per cell in P is my target so the bak65e at $10 per cell is looking a lot better to me than the linkdata at $12 per cell.
1 Like
I have no idea on this part just yet. All i know is that i want to have as much energy available as possible.. iām not entirely worried about riding a full charge without a rest stop as iām sure iāll be stopping plenty anyway.
If I find that my consumption is too high and i need more power, Iāll always have the option of adding more battery in a trailer, but iād like to avoid that for financial reasonsā¦ BUT! For redundancy and versatility reasons, i am also considering building two seperate batteries with 144 cells each.
144 cells should fit in the enclosure without a gasket and i could carry an identical battery in a trailer. This would allow me decent range and a better handling board without a trailer, while offering the advantage of using the trailer for a bigger total battery AND a backup on hand if the worst case scenario were to eventuateā¦
The more i think about this, the more I think that the dual battery makes a lot more sense for this use case.
2 Likes
Sorry if you already addressed this but will you be using a trailer for your equipment?
1 Like
Yeah a trailer is gonna be 100% necessary for the big trip. Iāll have a support vehicle, but thatās not gonna be with me all the time, so iāll need a trailer for carrying all my gear; chargers, spares, supplies, dog!
The dual battery idea is really growing on me, it simplifies the actual board build and adds a layer of redundancy for the big trip. It also allows for a bigger total battery.
For me, redundancy and reliability is probably one of the biggest design constraints for this build and this idea of a dual battery ticks those boxes very well
2 Likes
4wd actually isnāt very redundant. Only if your controllers are easily accessible when you need to switch to 2wd. (Or use 2 power switches)
The extra power you get from the front is actually not that much, most of your acceleration still comes from the rear. Front motors is meant for braking. So if your rear/front belt breaks, youāre essentially still have to stop and change it right away due to power distribution is like %70-80 rear and 20-30% front for acceleration and vice versa for braking.
For charging, those fast chargers are adjustable so youāre not limited to just EV stations. Highly recommend getting the touch screen version.
Efficiency wise, 4wd actually can get pretty decent wh/mi if you take it chill and limit your power. I can get 40wh/mi if I try but thatās pretty unrealistic for me. Iām closer to like 50wh/mi minimum riding normally on 4wd, thatās the same wh/mi as me racing on 2wd. Track efficient for normal riding is pain. 
Respectfully disagree. In the event of losing a drive/esc, iām gonna feel far more comfortable with 2 or 3 remaining drives than i would with1 or none.
Its worth mentioning that in the event of such a failure, the intention would be to replace the faulty components as soon as is safely possible. I would definitely not plan on riding any considerable distance on a busted up board.
The build will be focused around parts being easily replaceable, on the side of the road. Iāll achieve this by leaving stock components āas isā, not modifying wire lengths or connectors on the actual components and rather implementing harnesses, junction boxes, access panels etc to combine parts together.
Iāll look further into those chargers, adjustable current does sound pretty sweet, but one charger to rule them all does sound a lot like putting all my eggs in one basketā¦maybe iāll just get 2 of them 
one for each battery!
1 Like
In this case youād have to figure out a way to power just one controller. Either an accessible power connector or separate power buttons for each controllers.
Also for your belt drive. Which belt width are you planning to do? 15 or 20mm?
If something pops, i pull over and change it. But yeah, all power connections will be reasonably accessible for easy connect/disconnect. Iād only want to be using basic tools on the side of the road, so all of this will need to be carefully planned for this to be achievable.
As far as belts go i think iād be fine with 15 but seeing as iām going for reliability and iāll be designing my own pulleys anyway, i reckon iāll go for 20.
1 Like
This would be so simple with a brick battery in a bit top mountā¦
Do you need the real state on top of the deck or you just want it to be pretty.
So dang extra!!!
1 Like
Iām still undecided on whether to locate escs on each end of the deck or whether to place them in the middle.. i probably wonāt make that decision until i have all of the necessary components on handā¦
But I did want to steer away from having battery on top of deck, mainly for aesthetic reasons. I think I have very much sold myself on the idea of two identical batteriesā¦
1 Like