Yeah you did. Unfortunately the only way 12s5p in 40T would fit was Mark had to squeeze two cells for each P on top in a zip zag fashion. It’s a bummer but any less than 5p and I would have been disappointed in range.
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Ahh i see.
Enclosure risers can still look neat if they are done well, it might fuck up the alignment of the inserts a little bit tho 
Hmm yeah that may fuck with things. Bugger. Hopefully I can come up with something.
Here’s a pic of completed battery:
And here is where I’ve marked out the boundary of the enclosure to lay a rubber riser.
it turns out ok:
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Not sure exactly how you plan to do it, but I would have thought it would be easier to layer the riser on the flange of the enclosure itself. That way you can trim it exact using the side of the enclosure as a guide.
Also, stoked you decided to do a progressive build thread! Definitely my favorite type of build thread 
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Yes I believe that will be a better option haha. Thanks. I’m going to need to enlarge the current holes in the enclosure flange. Man I hope I don’t crack the edge!!
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Use a nice sharp drill bit and keep a reasonable pace, not too fast with the drill and you’ll be sweet. Try and give the fibreglass a solid backing when you drill through or it may blow out.
If you have any loose strands or blow out, just put some superglue on it and squash it back into place. I use like sticker backing paper to do the squashing so nothing gets stuck 
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Thanks for the tips
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Looks like a great build.
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Very slow progress on this build. Mostly because my 4wd TB DD order still has not shipped. Fingers crossed it will any day as I read they got a big order in last week .
I had to make a riser for the enclosure so I used rubber strips to build up required height of 9mm. I used araldite epoxy adhesive to secure to the enclosure as neatly as I could manage, then re-drilled holes. I needed to drill bigger holes to line up the bolts with the screw plugs. Layed a thin foam strip on the deck too to ensure a good fit. It’s not perfect but looks ok. I’ll probably paint the riser black when finished for a uniform colour.
The plus side to the rubber riser is I can run the cables through the riser instead of the enclosure. I’ve notched out some grooves that look rough but once the deck and enclosure come together it hides everything quite well.
The only other update is starting the loop key wiring. I’m using risers that incorporate the XT90 connector. I got the file from this forum. The creator was Mikael Kivi so thanks for sharing!
So now I’m just patiently waiting for my motors and trucks.
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Is that one loop key for both esc’s? I was considering used these for a 4wd setup but want something a little more robust to turn them on that one loop key. I dont wanna run 200A through a single one.
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@A13XR3 No I’ll be using a loop key at both ends. It will be a bit of a nuisance no doubt but trying to minimize potential problems in the future.
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Hi,
Dou you think there well be a water sealing with your plugs for motor’s wires ?
And do you have a link to the foam you use to seal your enclosure please ? And for the riser ?
Thanks a lot.
If you have a CAN connection or split PWM but separate power sources you might fry a rail by only powering up one side at a time
If you can I would try and get a higher current rated connection like an AS150 and have the split for the loop key in the middle of the board, the extra length from running wires that far can cause an ABS_OVERCURRENT error if you are unlucky
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Oh shit. Serious! I thought I was doing the right thing separating the power to the ESCs. The battery was built with a Y splitter sending power to each end of the battery. It’s all shrink wrapped up nicely and I have an XT90 connector at both ends for each ESC. I didn’t realize I can stuff the ESCs by powering them up separately 
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I can’t really have one loop key in the centre as there is no room at all. I don’t know what to do now 
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I’ll just use black silcone around the cables where they go through the rubber riser to seal it.
As for the foam and the rubber I used, I purchased it locally from a store in Australia called Clark Rubber. Sorry I know that’s not much use to you.
@YUTW123 Maybe you could confirm / deny that powering the ESCs on non-simultaneously could cause issues with the CAN connection? I know this used to be an issue on some Focbox versions, but I was under the assumption that every ESC since then has this issue fixed…
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It hasnt been a problem since Focbox 1.6, 1.7 and every VESC past that is fitted with the more robust CAN chip.
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I messaged Maker X to confirm. Hoping to hear bqck soon although it seems it could be positive news
thanks mate
So I got this reply from Maker X:
“Make sure that the negative terminals of the power supply are connected together.
Just need to connect, GND CANH CHNL”
So I think two loop keys will be ok
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