Thank you man. I was asking with a long term solution in mind like swamping the battery after it dies. I guess that can only be done if you also swap the enclosure…
I did not know about the proprietary pcb. I have my v1 esc just chillin and was contemplating using it in a low powered diy 
Does anyone know what this mystery pcb does?
There is?… Is it just a BMS?
The few times I’ve taken apart my board, I only remember seeing the positive and negative leads of the battery going to the esc. The board would have no way tell the stock battery apart from a custom battery, right?
I’m sure Aiden said the esc would only work with this set up. The PCB probably got the bms there as well. I was going to test the esc on another battery pack but the connectors were different. I would love to use the tynee esc on my hub and direct drives build. Let me know if you have any luck with hooking it up to another battery pack.
Ditto bro. Real drag if it can’t be used elsewhere. After thousand plus miles I’ve swapped out two v2 escs on both of my explorers and binned the v1s escs.
I’m Pretty sure that is a massive discharge bms. You can just desolder the connector end put an xt60 or xt 90 on there.
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Its just 5 rows of cells or is there another row outside of the frame?
12s4 set up. So 4 rows of cells with pcb separating cells and esc
Which Riptides did you go with on your Explorer’s TKP trucks?
Which RKP are you running on the front of your Explorer?
By stating:
" When tuned right, DKPs are great on electric boards.
One reason I really like them is the adjustability. On RKP, the baseplate angle (more or less) sets the geometric ratio between “deck leaning” and “trucks turning”.
Hard to explain, but with DKP, you’re able to change the ratio between “deck leaning” and “trucks turning” by adjusting the ratio of tightness of the two kingpins. A tighter board side kingpin is like a lower baseplate angle, while a tighter road side kingpin is like a high baseplate angle. Great for getting the exact feel for a board how you want it. (also lets you set up more steering in the front, which helps with stability)"
Is it correct to think that if all bushings on both DKP trucks are identical then running a tighter boardside kingpin in the rear and a tighter roadside kingpin in the front would yield a set up that steered more in the front than the rear? (slight over-steer)?
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@tuckjohn
I just bolted on the same RipTides that you recommended and WOW!
I don’t even want to know the science behind your selection but it is a perfect balance between way more stable AND way more nimble. Thank you!
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Bushing selection and truck geometry is a dark art that engineers disappear into and never come out
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very accurate rendering
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Hey TheNr24, Kami Juin, a YouTuber that does eskate stuff reported better stability with the DKP setup vs the tkp setup and he was the only YouTuber to test the DKP.bi also value his opinion. This could be because they aren’t using proper bushing setup in the TKP where they are in the DKP. So I would just keep the DKP on. Look up a stable bushing combo if you really want to squeeze every bit of handling/stability out of the board and do so with riptides.
Sorry bro I missed this. I’m running evolves dkp up front and Tynees tkp at back.
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No problemo. I ran the Tynee DKP up front and TKP in back for years, until I tried @tuckjohn’s Riptide selection. Which made the double DKP set-up way more controllable.
Now going to Tito’s Duality trucks is a whole other level of refinement!
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