dont forget Orion, who have been doin RC ESCs for a long while and just got into esk8. Onsra are known to use their ESC and a few of us suspect some of these other brands using “their own” ESC are using Orion
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I honestly don’t see china brand using race class rc esc anytime soon, when hobbywing and lingyi are basically what they build their platform on
Any links or more info to Orion ESCs?
What makes an ESC a race class RC ESC? Is it the quality of the components? Performance?
No plans for them to officially announce anything, it is surprising that them working with/for Onsra became public.
For Onsra, using the hobbywing ESC that many budget brands use, then labelling yourself as “premium” attracted some criticism, that is just one reason I doubt anyone else using Orion will publically announce it, much the same way Exway when they first came out made no mention of Hobbywing, until much later.
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not exactly, exway was owned by hobbywing at that time, so they r truly the only company can say that its their own custom esc 
(and they also get features no other brand who bought hobbywing esc has until years later, so there’s that)
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X1-Pro was ahead of its time with remote and app.
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Exactly, it took , what, 4 years for them to get remote on/off feature? Like that was already on the first exway board
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Re-read what I typed, I did Not say they didn’t use Hobbywing. I said they made no mention of Hobbywing.
Thanks.
You can also press that same button 6 times to switch between aggressive and smooth riding. I believe its preset on aggressive.
Hey, I’m completely new to skateboarding and just ordered an Explorer with the extra DKP base plates and 120mm cloudwheels. I have a few intersections on my commute where I’d like the tight turning radius going slow, but am afraid of speed wobbles going fast. I read that riptide KranK bushings help but have no idea which ones to get!
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You can ask the owner of Riptide in this thread:
Any of the 6/5 kits will work in the Tynee DKP’s. What do you weigh?
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I know this post is super old, but may I ask which 200mm wheels you used for Tynee Explorer? I recently bought the upgraded Tynee Explorer (basically 80A ESC instead of 60A), and I need to slap some 200mm wheels on it. Funny thing is that, without removing the motor covers that cover the motor pulleys, I can’t even use the 175mm HOTAs that Tynee says it supports. So ofc I’ll remove that motor cover. But still, which 200mm wheels did you use? And also, if you managed to put de 66T pulley and the belt you wanted (did you actually drill holes in the motor mounts to give them more space for the longer belt?)
Please let me know if you happen to see this. Thank you so much, your comments here have been mind opening.
Hey fam. New member here. Very interested in the explorer. I bought a propel pivot GT 6 months ago and find myself wanting something a little different. I love the flex of the bamboo deck and the specs look to be very similar to the pivot. Now that they offer the Samsung 50A cells it appears to even be able to perform better with the KV-145 motors. Very torquey. Does anyone have experience comparing the two boards? I’d love to know some feedback. Thanks in advance.
TIL there’s a Tynee Explorer thread!
And I haven’t posted here yet! 
I got my Explorer in October 2022 (upgrade from Evolve GTR).
Consider this an 18-month Anthology.
DKP, Riptide bushings, BKB tires, 3D printed belt covers, Shreadlights.
I’ve ridden 1900-ish miles, and still ride it every day. It’s my daily commuter and grocery getter.
My enthusiasm contributed to (at least) three other people buying for themselves
One of them being my dad
There’s an imposter
I brag that my board can 180 inside a parking space, but is still rideable at 30mph
Feat. Steve S
I’m using Riptide Krank bushings of multiples duros and shapes, covered in graphite.
If you're curious about my bushing setup
Coating all mating surfaces with graphite during assembly really helps to keep the bushings smooth and lubricated, without picking up dirt and grime like a wet lubricant would.
Note this setup is way looser then a lot of people run their boards, and is only really stable up to ~22mph. Faster takes a lot of concentration.
Rear
Front
(yes, I get wheelbite on my shreadlights)
This board also taught me how to powerslide/powerdrift
It’s not bad on a track, either
Highly recommend BKB tires. Super grippy, predictable slide, and lasts a long time. They last me around 300~400 miles (down to the cords), which is significantly longer then any other tire I’ve tried.
Two more videos of the turny turny
Reliability
Over those 2000 miles, through normal riding and on separate occasions, I’ve broken:
- Two motors (Hall sensors)
- ESC v1.0 and ESC v2.0 (hence why I don’t know my exact mileage for the board)
- cracked a deck
- Uncountable consumables (tires and belts)
It’s basically become a board of Theseus. Every broken component has been quickly replaced by Tynee under warrantee. Couldn’t ask for better service, my experience has been great.
Unfortunately, the battery has degraded to the point to where I can only reliably get 12 miles on a charge(with how I ride), so I can’t really bring it on local SoCal group rides anymore. The few times I’ve tried to and hypermile, I had to get towed the last couple miles.
Given the cost of a battery replacement, unfortunately this is board relegated the role of grocery getter and getting around at track nights.
Still love it though
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Not sure if he’ll get back to you, I’ll chime in.
My go-to for 200mm on my Kaly board are Kendas. I’m not sure 200mm would fit on the Explorer, I’m already close to wheelbite on mine with 155mm. but I’m on DKP and super loose bushings, so take that with a grain of salt(see above post).
IMO 155mm BKB’s are perfect for street riding and decent enough for offroad.
This thread might be helpful for you if you really want to try 200mm’s
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I sure wish I had the same sort of customer service experience you did with Tynee. I love my Explorer but it’s been an endless repair experience at my own expense. My Explorer is out of warranty now not that I was able to enforce my warranty while it was valid.
What was the failure mode of your ESC v2.0. I’m on that one now as a paid upgrade and your post makes me worry that I’ll be replacing it soon.
Where did your deck crack? Was it at the rear truck mount? I do periodic inspections but knowing the week points of this board sure would help.
I’ve been eyeing those BKB 155mm tires. You’ve persuaded me to pull the trigger.
I may also try DKP trucks after watching your parking lot turns. My Explorer is an urban commuter and I could use a tighter turning radius. Regarding your bushing setup might I ask what you weigh in case I do buy the DKP trucks? I’ve been contemplating a Riptide order for my acoustic boards and I may as well bundle it all together.
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Wow, sorry to hear that. Unfortunately you’re not the only person that I’ve heard this from.
Powered my v2.0 esc on one day, and it didn’t work. Got a replacement
Kinda sus that they’re still selling the ESC v1.0 - Its failure mode was a full lockup at 20 mph.
The front, actually. Same place a lot of drop deck boards break. I didn’t have a catastrophic failure, just noticed an increasing flexiness over ~100 miles of riding. Here’s the media I sent when I asked for a deck replacement.
The replacement deck they sent is about an inch wider then my old one was.
Looking at my current deck(the replacement one), it seems that a crack in the same spot is starting to develop in the rear. 
Hopefully I can get a replacement deck from Tynee. Talking to them, they said new deck versions added a fillet on the interior bend section to reduce stress.
I think it’s important to add that I’m probably an edge case. I weigh ~210 pounds and ride a ton (and never in a straight line) 
I’d be surprised if casual riders had this issue.
When tuned right, DKPs are great on electric boards.
One reason I really like them is the adjustability. On RKP, the baseplate angle (more or less) sets the geometric ratio between “deck leaning” and “trucks turning”.
Hard to explain, but with DKP, you’re able to change the ratio between “deck leaning” and “trucks turning” by adjusting the ratio of tightness of the two kingpins. A tighter board side kingpin is like a lower baseplate angle, while a tighter road side kingpin is like a high baseplate angle. Great for getting the exact feel for a board how you want it. (also lets you set up more steering in the front, which helps with stability)
Riptide bushings are the single best improvement you can make to any stock board imo, with tires being a close second. Changing out chinesium plastic bushings for glorious silky smooth riptides is a night and day difference.
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Thanks for the detailed response. Mine is free of cracks for now…
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