Twin single Maytech VESC wiring question

How do you wire the power button correctly so that 1 button powers both VESCs on at the same time?

What vesc are you using? Most AS switches go before the splitter to the VESCs, from the battery


These are Maytech 100As, and the anti-spark is built in to the VESC. It uses a latching button as the activator, and the black and red are what get closed when you have the button latched in.

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Yah on the black single line coming from battery before it splits to power input for VESCs is where you would typically have a switch.

This is a common issues on VESCS where the AS only powers one of the two, youll have to use the type of AS I mentioned unless you want to do some cutting and soldering… and even then its not guaranteed to last. Those AS switches are known to be flimsy

I personally don’t trust built in switches.
I’d install a loopkey or an anti spark with switch if you don’t want the loopkey


I’ve been using the switch on my new build with battery put together by metro-boards since it has built in BMS and the switch cuts power from there but know a lot of people bypass BMS for discharge or when I’m not using a BMS prefer antispark loop-key (still good fallback option in any case)

Those are the ones.

@wafflejock My personal preference is to avoid using separate anti-spark switches. My experience with them has been abysmal, so I’m going the route of using the built-in one of the VESC, while also installing a loop-key for long term storage. I simplified the schematic for the sake of trying to get to the answer I’m looking for, which is how to get one latching LED button to activate/deactivate two VESCs designed to work with the same type of button.

My guess is the way I think it works, only the black wires need to be joined on both button connectors…

While I agree that most are crap, the ones in your Maytech VESCs are no different.

Im sure youve read up on it, but the key is limiting the inrush of current. Theres a current thread where @Gamer43 is leading the development of a new switch( If I understand correctly? He seems to be knee deep in it, as well as posting links frequently.), I think you should check it out.

Ill edit with a link in a second

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Heres a general one about FS AS switches


Notice the differences between the commercially sold and these:

super quick search turned this up

Again, I’m not asking for a debate on whether or not to trust anti-sparks.

I already plan on using a loop key to cut power long term, so I don’t think we need to debate the point further.

If you have the answer to the question, great! If not, that’s fine too!

If you’re just gonna use a loop key, then just cut the switch off and jump the black and red together? That way they’re always “on” unless your loop key is plugged in.

  1. The build already has a giant hole in the enclosure for a giant button. It already has a giant button in it. I’d rather not have a giant button on the enclosure, that does nothing, that doesn’t light up indicating the board is on, and covering the hole with duct tape is something other people do, but I find it to be an eyesore.
  2. I prefer not to have to use the loop-key as the primary method of turning the board on/off. I prefer to use it for long-term storage only. I find it clunky, easy to lose, difficult to remove, and a PITA to seal/waterproof

Still, thanks for the bypass tip! Its another option that may be viable, though I’d prefer to do what I want to do which is have one button power both VESCs on/off.

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Oh, I guess you can just bypass the VESCs and use the 3Dservisas antispark since it uses a giant power button. I haven’t read the previous posts so I don’t know if it’s been mentioned, but I think this should be reliable enough

That thing draws 250mW on idle.


Bypass the built-in antispark, chances are they will die after a few dozen power cycles anyway. Without knowing the internal schematic of the switches, there’s no way to know how to use one button to control both.

The flipsky antispark draws 2.5mA quiescent,
Haggybaord is coming out with one that draws 126uA quiescent.
Basically means if you charge your board once or twice a week it won’t be an issue.


I search the reference and the operating shemas of the button linked to the MTVESC100A

can you help me


this thread is 3 years old

If it helps him :man_shrugging:t2: