Ive dealt with them several times and they have been pretty generous with how they resolve problems.
3 Likes
good to know. will look some more into them
not sure if you’ve ever dealt with HobbyKing but I’ve never heard of anyone who says that.
@glyphiks not sure about 12s as they are vesc 4’s. some people get lucky but it isn’t ideal
3 Likes
The Flipsky 4.12 is what is known for reliability. The mini 4.20 is gash.
Just to make sure you guys buy the right one.
3 Likes
3 Likes
Pls review vesc value vesc from big retailer.
Under the three wires going out man neg wire gasket it reads ON/OFF LED GND… Red for GND? I guess it is a switch so who cares.
4 Likes
Who gets the invoice? 
IMO, those connections can go anywhere. They might not have any relationship to the +/- symbols and main connections near them. See other post below.
I’ll pay you in compliments about your calves and/or lack of abdominal stretch marks from childbirth.
2 Likes
I’ve changed my mind…does indeed look like the red wire is connected to the copper plane for the main NEG connection. I guess red is GND in this case.
Because that never causes any problems. 
Though technically, as you mentioned, if it’s for a switch it might not matter (depending on the LED setup). Still a terrible practice though.
1 Like
Initial thoughts:
It’s two 4.12s slapped together, with the same terrible mosfet pcb sandwich. It’s going to get hot fast.
Do you feel up for a foc_openloop test? I’m slowly building a database and I’m interested in the results of this one.
It’s the same size as two OG focboxes. I’d take those over this, but if it goes in something low powered it should be OK… and it is still a good price
3 Likes
From my first look here I think it would be really wise to put a blower fan on the plastic housing, for the easiest solution. Or CNC custom heatsink/case on the other side of spectrum.
1 Like
Got any instructions or documentation on how the open loop test works. I ordered two of these and will run the test when I finally (3 days to 3 years from now) get them set up
1 Like
This is how I do it, as long as the duty cycle and current is the same, it should be fairly apples to apples.
Keep the heatsinks on, hook it up to two motors, plug it into USB, do the motor detection, set motor limits to 80A, click the heart beat and turn on realtime data. Go to the terminal. Type:
foc_openloop 80 1000
and see what the duty cycle is. Should be about 8-9%. Adjust the second number (erpms) up or down a few hundred at a time until you are close.
Let the mosfets cool to 28C, click the RT logging button so it saves the data to a csv and run that command in the terminal. Switch to the second canbus and run it there too (hit up arrow). At some point, I’m guessing 30 seconds or so, it will start to reduce current as the mosfets reach about 77C.
Then unclick the rt logging button and upload the CSV. I’ve got an excel book that will calculate the start / end times and add it to a graph. I’ll make a post on all the escs I have data for soon. I test repaired ESCs this way so I just collect thermal data as a bonus.
12 Likes
This post needs to be archived somewhere. Even worthy of it’s own thread.
5 Likes
