Trying to build my first esk8 for cheap.At the sametime, High quality.

Usa

Ok, i Will try fiberglass. You are right about the rc part. Carbon does block signal. I’m going to learn from the post you provided.

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This is an incredibly generous offer. :fairy:

I would probably strongly consider that. @TheBoardGarage is a long time member here.

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Putting electrodes on an 18650 battery and welding some nickel to it is the easy part.

Determining the correct nickel thickness and shape, series connection wire sizes and type, isolating p groups, protecting the can near the positive terminal, designing in flex, and not damaging the cell by incorrectly welding the negative terminal is the hard part.

But we all start somewhere. Reading through the million posts in that battery building club thread would be a good start to gaining that knowledge… but it’s hard to pass up a free battery build from an experienced builder.

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… And an excellent battery builder.

@TheBoardGarage can advise you on the best choice to achieve this but it will either be braided, tinned copper or several smaller gauge silicone wire, the latter of which would be superior imo. 3x 20 awg would he about right for the series connections.

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I would strongly prefer multiple pieces of silicone-insulated high-strand-count copper wire (sometimes called “superworm”) over copper braid. I’d use 16AWG or 14AWG though

I have a brand new 12s12p M35a battery available for sale! Has roughly 75 miles on it, which was used for testing.

From your proto?
lets not derail this thread

Yup!

Dude, 30 cells (what OP is looking for) vs. 144 cells(your 12s12p). C’mon, really? I agree with @Evwan, please don’t derail, especially when OP is not even looking for what you’re selling. Good luck with sale though.

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#foundthereddituser

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My favorite cheap enclosure method is the one shared in this thread:

Also, where did you find a deal on 10 pairs of XT30, XT60 and XT90 all for 8$? I want that! :laughing:

+1 for Brian’s list for the order in which you should pick your parts
+1 for buying a used battery rather than building your own, it definitely is cheaper, unless you can find someone to lend you a spot welder and you don’t value your time at all lol
+1 for using a loop key instead of an antispark to save money

And I think a good single drive setup is the best performance per dollar option. Means 1 less ESC, 1 less motor, 1 less drivetrain. Also you can save money by using a non-esk8 front truck.

Ambitious goal, I wish you luck!

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I suppose this is only realistic with new parts

This board was 500 bucks (minus davega)
i ruined the battery by leaving the loop key in and am rebuilding it rn

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It’s still realistic because it’s often not fast at all to scour the parts markets daily until the items you need come up for sale at a discount. So that’s “good” and “cheap” but not “fast”.

I disagree but this derailing too much

The thread title is “Trying to build my first esk8 for cheap.At the sametime, High quality.”

That’s not offtopic at all.

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This motor’s performance is underwhelming. Better go with flipsky BH 6354 190kv.

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Not if you fully enclose everything, if the enclosure isn’t enclosed. The electronics are on the bottom so you’ll still be able to get signal if you don’t put carbon on the enclosure

The thing I learned from building my first board (well finishing ) is however much you want to put into it. Cheap or not. There will be extras that is crucial and will put the budget more on the ropes so that’s another thing, make sure you got everything you need and not missing anything

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