That’s strange if you’re still seeing that issue after an nrf firmware update. It’s well known/reproducible and fixed based on my own testing.
Do you know if it’s the same hardware? I only have one dongle here and theres no versioning indication.
I wonder if the older ones were missing the filter cap on the 3.3v in?
Have you tested it with the RT data logging activated?
This is when I have problems.
That’s exactly how I reproduce the problem.
Same trouble for me.
But still, I need to figure out what conditions trigger this issue because it’s not always the case.
rf nerd here, so water can have quite the impact on rf, specially higher frequencies, the lower you go the lesser the impact(2.4 ghz is quite high), and the body if full of water, i dont know the exact power of the wand / module but im guessing its about 10-25 mw, and im guessing that due to the antenna configuration that it has the null on the vertical plane, and its probably throughout the vertical plane, yeah sure design can be better, but the wand was probably designed specially with the monsterbox in mind
As one who has no idea how all the nrf, 2.4ghz stuff works i still don’t understand how specifically trampa has still problems with connectivity and how a bit if hotglue can possibly cause such a drama
My remote Receiver is inside a 3d printed case, closed with hotglue, on top of foam, stuck between 2 vescs, 6 phase wires and 4 power cables on top, all within a tupperware box + me in the way. No dropped signal once while still being able to control it 30m away or so.
correct me if i’m looking at it wrong.
Edit: i dont use a trampa remote. Mini, nano and vx1
So like Frank said, if it works for you, other shouldn’t have any issue ?
Best case they shouldn’t have any problems yes. But if they do i would look how to reduce the problems. Even if i have to change something on my product.
Frank’s radio signal pollution is not the same as mine. Therefore i can have a different experience.
When multiple people report the same thing it would be smart to look at my product and improve it if it’s not suitable to be used in a wide variety of locations.
Just received a “quick and dirty” breakout board (did a labelling mistake on COMM port, and I may also save a mm or 2.
Anyone can assist me in setting up a proper nRF environement for compiling the FW ?
I struggle a lot with it…
You can find PCB project here (include links for extra parts).
Once I can flash my custom FW, I’ll report how it goes.
I have a bunch of PCB so if it works well, I’ll sell the extra ones. 
They are all the same. A simple FW update should do the trick. A new version with 52840 is currently tested with PCB antenna and with external antenna. However, depending on the board and receiver placement, goofy vs regular etc, results will always be different. The faster the dots blink, the better. It shouldn’t be too hard to find a good spot for the receiver.
Hit me up on Telegram I can get you pointed in the right direction. I’ll get my nrf52 repo pushed public with the timeslots fixes as well.
Maybe tell your customers about this?
@Pimousse Here you go.
Trampa Wand in action. (connection hiccup. I did not increase the throttle)
Hey @Trampa, any more words? 
@DerelictRobot It’s flawless. 
Hard to keep confidence into this remote with this kind of behaviour…
Glad you kept the balance though.
Do we have more captured material?
I expect that behaviour at any time
Would be good to see where the receiver sits.
I also experienced connection issues with my wand, the receiver used to be stuck to the side of my esc enclosure (vertical). As a goofy rider the placement of the receiver is extra critical. What solved my problem was redesigning the encloser so the receiver was on top and layed flat. At first i thought the connectivity issues came from my flipshite vesc, but with the receiver in the new spot I haven’t noticed any issues after many hours of riding.
Thats an aluminium tub i guess and the reciever sticks on the aluminium side wall. The metal will affect the reception. The reciever shouldn’t have direct contact to metal. The lid of that box would need to be from plastic and the reciever should be located on the inside of the lid.
The sidewall is milled out from POM. 
