Trampa HS11 | Focbox Unity | FS 6384 190KV | 12s8p

Yeah I figued… Pretty sure its going to be belts now

Also not sure how you will do on clearance with a bottom mount with 110s, pretty sure not very good especially with turning. I am not able to turn well on curved slopes cus I will bottom out with 125mm and corners of board with hit the ground, though may be bc of flex. But 110s may need risers. Not sure if 110s will fit on axle, need to check in comparison with which trucks your are getting.

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Hey hey!
I would recommend the tb 6380, they are truly the best.
I am literally doing the same build as you haha.
I am in the same situation, I had an evolve to (as you know :smirk:) and i really like the evolve style remote. I really want the wand as well but i read somewhere as well that it is incompatible with the unity. @Venom121212 do you know?
If not i would go for either the maytech, Hoyt midnight+davega, or even an osrr (if @DerelictRobot has the time)
I will get a Davega in any case though.

i was planning to go with the diebms from @samau18 and @JTAG from the other forum.
I mean any bms will work even a 20 euro one from ebay. I prefer to see my cells V so that i can moniteur them and hopefully extend the life of the pack.

If you want speed then sure the 12 will give you a bit more and more range, but 10s5p will give you that extra punch, it all depends what cell you choose, there are so many to look at. here are some i was looking at. The prices of course vary and 30q is best overall.
Samsung 50e
Sanyo NCR2070C 20700
Samsung 40t
Samsung 35e
all the cells with less than 15A need more P because you loose the power. like a 35e pack may need a 10s7p to get the real benefit. Others will comment their opinions as i am still learning on batteries too.

Just get a moon drive, totally worth it. if you want thane just use trampa gummies, and if you don’t like them then haggy bergs are 147mm and that is really best of both worlds.

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Correct, no Wand implementation that I’ve heard of yet

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Hi, what are the dimensions of that enclosure?

Not sure :thinking: you should ask (https://www.instagram.com/esk8_ru/)

As I have gathered most parts, Just waiting on the mount/pully’s and wheels.
I was wondering if you could help me with what type of cables/nickel I need to use for the battery pack. The pack constant discharge should be 120amps acording to the esk8calculator so i would need to use 12awh wire at least right? I’m planning on using this diagram i found on this forum with eboardsperu 12s8p battery layout.


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Decided to go with a top mounted B&W Type 1000 case. Would somone be as kind to see if this diagram makes sense ?

Wise choice.
Your diagram is, erm, unconventional but as far as I can tell it looks ok.

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Hahah how so ? or what would u do diffrent

I would design (as in draw) it differently that is all.

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Some updates
Build the trucks/mounts/battery box
Build the battery but I managed the wire the bms wrong and it went op in smoke as soon as I put the charger in…





Pretty sure i messed the balance wires up… I did not use the B- wire and I am pretty sure I did the wires the wrong way around :poop:

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The battery still works as i did manage to run the focbox setup…

Update?

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I actually did completed the board+… But since I live in holland this board was just to big and drew too much attention in the end and I couldn’t enjoy it as much as a normal eboard.

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Sorry to revive an old thread but do you know if there’s any compatibility between the wand and the unity now?

No clue, wand has been having a shit ton of connection issues so I stopped following its progress

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Good to know, thanks for that. Anything you would recommend as an alternative?

Personally, my favorite remote BY FAR is the maytech split trigger remote.

The mini remote is cheap and reliable but nothing fancy about it.

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@Hogyoku if you’re around. Lemme know how those motors held up for ya offroad. Thnks