I’ve only built 3 batteries so would you be so kind as to explain what the slots in the nickel do? Always looking to improve my work!
well done 
looks awesome!
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Where is the post? Can’t find it.
@longhairedboy i’m no scum 
Even though i’m a regular on the lands of reddit. 95% of content on there is on a pre-school level. Reposts after reposts, sometimes there is support for real scumbags etc.
But yeah…
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Fantastic. I love to see when a tidius job has been done so many times that you see a clear pattern. Really nice.
Side note, what router do you have? DIY or like x-Carve? I am obses with CNC 
@Anubis mind telling us, with your extensive esk8 experience, what is wrong with Damon’s battery pack? I really want to know.
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a hacked X-Carve with a dewalt 611 router. I got the 1000mm kit and extended the Y to 5 feet and the reduced the X to 2 feet, then replaced the wasteboard and set the whole thing on top of a rolling drawer cart and made a power/USB combo cable. Very portable, do most of my cutting in the driveway and take a leafblower to the sawdust.
the plan is to box it in completely with a lid and use dust extraction so I can cut inside and reduce the noise by 1000000%
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I saw something of the xcarve but there was a DIY touch 
Enclosure will help a lot with dust and noise. For the noise standard router are loud AF. If you wish to try get the 1.5Kw air cooled spindle from China. They work really nice. Have a better run out. Are rather cheap and the entire set of ER11 collects cost 15$. More powerful and the noise is like 1/20 of a router.
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The Dewalt is a screamer, was using a Makita which was quieter but it burnt.
Maybe an AMB/KRESS FME 1050 P, from what I read it is quiet, doesn’t need a VFD and uses ER16 collets.
The spindle might be quiet but the tool cutting through plywood still makes a lot of noise.
I have a kress 1050fme-1. I can assure that it’s still a lot louder than the spindle I suggested. Between the router is on eof the best since it’s built with a really sturdy spindle and rount out is low. Teh collet are still proprietary so they cost like 15$ each. Which is crazy. With the spindle you get the all set for the price of one
The tool cutting will always make noise, but remove the router noise is already something. Thst is my experience of course.
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@Brenternet Nothing specifically, as I stated in my comment I said he is a good builder and the pack is safe. I just added some extra safety precautions people use in packs, because the post said “This is how you build a proper battery”
Are the nickle strips rounded off on this pack? It doesn’t look like they are, isn’t that a safety concern?
Here are the other things I added
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Cell Group PCBS + Copper braided Cables / Wires for flexible packs
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Rounded nickle strips for protection agaisnt vibrations slicing the balance leads
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Balance lead bracing, securing each balance lead in its own lane to stop any rubbing
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using a battery box, as in the battery ends up an exact square. Gives a little more resistance to dropping the pack down and not hitting it directly on a solder point
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Using more nickle, but its an evolve pack so its not taking any amps anyway.
I also added directly *
I should note that isn’t a badly made pack, probably not unsafe either. I’m not an expert on building packs but I know about some of the safety features you can do. Of course there is also per cell fusing, cell by cell voltage management and a thermal sensor which iirc evolves actually have one. All that can be overkill for a pack only drawing 24 amps or whatever the gt esc takes though.
If any of that is incorrect, please correct me. Otherwise I don’t want to hear from you.
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@Anubis aren’t you the same guy who was on reddit arguing with someone that remotes don’t need a fail-safe and got schooled? Hard to take battery advice from someone who doesn’t know about remote fail safes.
I don’t know the proper way to clean a trumpet, does that mean I can’t build safe batteries?
yeah because trumpets are a core component of electric skateboards. GTFO
It’s silly to suggest lack of knowledge of remotes precludes knowledge of battery building.
sillier to compare trumpets to remotes though
Thanks for sharing your experience, looked into the Kress after I burnt my makita. I still have the dewalt but I don’t like it.
I was mainly sold on the kress because it is simpler than the spindle+VFD combo. And swear that I read that the FME-P used er16 but I don’t know if the clamping nut is proprietary and if it doesn’t accept cheap nut and collet then I’d probably have to look into spindles. One of my criteria is that I need to be able to use 3/8” bits and unless I haven’t look hard enough, I did not find any collets or that size in er11. I looked into a 2.2kw but it gets heavy. Would you share the link to where you got your spindle please?
Where are you located? because you can find this spindle everywhere. Also locally on ebay and the VFD comes most of the time already connected or with the instruction. It’s really nothing special.
The kress is proprietary nut and collets. It wont’ fit the cheap collect, or at least not in the way you want to secure your endmill.
The 2.2Kw is a beast and if your router support it, go for it. Although is most of the time liquid cooled so you need an extra backet following the cut, filled with cooling and a pump. The air cooling is plenty enough up to 1.5Kw and the power as well. I mean 2.2 is more metal cutting then wood and 1.5kw is also fine for router metal cutting since you usually cut fast but not hard.
Sqaured version, to me more solid and eaiser to install but depends on your Z axis format
otherwise the classic one
on youtube you can find a lot of review and local links too, based on where you live.
every time I go to the esk8 reddit I am truely disappointed
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