would anyone be so kind as to measure the diameter of the pins for the Kegel core and the outer diameter?
if i know these dimensions i can pull off a test batch of my wheel design, thanks!
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sounds like the bearings are damaged
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i love you!
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Your noise go away for a bit if you do motor detection again?
Yesterday I flushed the bearings and the motor was still hard to spin and was making the same noise as when the bearings were greased so I didn’t bother putting grease back in them.
I haven’t re run motor detection or even run the motor using the esc since I flushed the bearings, only spun it by hand.
I tried your method of moving the stator back and that had no effect on how difficult the motor was to spin.
I’m not sure what steps I can take past what I’ve done, so I’ll probably run the board single drive until I get a response from TB support. In case I don’t get one, what’s the part number on the big bearing? The small one is 6904VV.
Just for the record:
My drive also does noises again. After changing the big bearing that is. i’m currently thinking it doesn’t have to do with the bearing at all.
Just hate these drives,but also love 'em.
But also hate 'em…
@MacKeeper28 is the bearing completely dry now? You should not ride like that also can you check the condition now? I was able to inspect the races and ball bearings when I had them clean to be sure I’m not regreasing a broken bearing.
How I have it half done here you can almost see the ball bearings as it is, if they’re all perfect and the races they roll on it’s not necessarily bad.
Maybe more flushing, wiggling and compressed air could fix it but I understand if you’re at your wits end.
Be careful when trying to regrease the bearing as shown:
You’re mainly applying the grease on the outer side of the bearing cage → the majority of the bearing might stay unlubed. You’d be surprised how much grease you can get in there when using a grease-press.
You absolutely should use a grease-press…///
@jindra I do have the bearing completely clean and it appears that all the balls roll and the races are in good condition from what I can see. I haven’t ridden it without grease, only spun it by hand. Here’s a video of what it sounds like:
Wouldn’t I have to remove the bearings completely to effectively use a grease press and in that case, since the bearings don’t seem like they can be removed without potentially damaging the races, wouldn’t it be better to buy new bearings anyway?
I definitely think it would be best to buy a new bearing.
I definitely think it would be second best to regrease the bearing with a grease-press fitted with a small nozzle to get the gunk in. You will never know if the factory bearing is already damaged, though. (At least in my experience)
I didn’t do that and mine are perfect. I simply added to the dimples and moved it a bunch to get it underneath then did it again. It doesn’t need a press to put grease in. You also don’t have to remove it to regrease. The motor can be taken apart without damaging the bearing, I have done this, but you don’t need to unless you’re replacing the bearing or looking for that noise.
Can you see any damage inside the bearing? All balls ok? Does the outer race and inner look decent? If you’re certain nothing is in the bearing regrease it because that noise might not go away otherwise.
Is the bearing center or outside slipping in the can or is that all tight?
Have you tried compressed air to force debris out if there is anything?
Gotta figure out if that noise is the bearing 100% and not @Kram720 problem or something else.
You do you!
How do you take apart the motor without damaging the bearings?
All bearing surfaces look good as far as I can tell. Both races look smooth and without scoring and the balls all roll.
Both races are tight against their respective parts of the motor.
I have tried compressed air and it got a lot of grease out, but I haven’t seen any debris come out.
I’m not fully convinced the noise is the bearings, but I need @torqueboards blessing before I’ll tear into the motor further in case they want me to return the motor under warranty.
Yeah I wouldn’t take it apart without talking to torqueboards first.
To take it apart without damaging bearings you use a press or a large vice and press the middle out once you have the circlip off. I used a socket bit and a hammer to tap it out gently which can break them but mine wasn’t too tight. Think about how much force sideways can go on a bearing during normal riding. FYI you hammer the very inner part; the axle not the bearing inner race.
To put it back together you really want a small vice though so make sure you can fit it in one you have.
Also as mentioned it might need a small push on that inner part to stop the scraping like kram.
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I tried kram’s fix and got the stator to move about 2mm toward the direction of the hanger. This did not change the sound or rolling resistance at all, so I hammered the stator back to where it was using a rubber mallet. The stator and inner race of the small bearing are now flush, just as they were before I messed with it.
From now on I’m gonna refer to the small bearing side as the front of the motor to make explaining things easier lmao
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Haha yeah ok so aside from that being the issue there could be a magnet scraping but we are running out of options. Does sound like a bad bearing but I’ve recovered rusted seized skate bearings and rode them for years so unless the balls are shattered and the races are all pitted like crazy I don’t understand, maybe the bearing has some bad tolerances.
Definitely wait for torqueboards email before taking it apart further. If you’re bored check if every individual ball is free, I’d try adding grease again and seeing if it can be worked free somehow then flushing again maybe. Sucks if its not fixable since mine sounded exactly the same and are perfect now.
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