who said mine wasn’t?
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ooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh 
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i just hope i get a replace motor asap. Still nothing on the next step from Dexter.
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@torqueboards Posting here as you are not responding to my emails. I’ve had issues with my XL DD kit from day one and now one of the motors is completely seized. You were the one that told me to continue to ride it, and i did. The noise got worst and eventually seized. The motor has 50 miles on it and you are not doing anything about it…which is why I’m starting to get really pissed about this situation. I 've spent $900 on this!
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I Know who I’m not gonna buy from… that sucks hope they finally sort this out 4 you
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Dexx Wu?
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Another week, still nothing from Dexter.
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Look i dont know Dex personally at all and ik how bullshit it is to buy a product thats faulty and get no help but honestly uve wasted more time hounding this man over trying to fix ur dd instead of just moving on u couldve gotten a whole ass new drivetrain by now. Dex is either:
A. Not giving a fuck or
B. So busy with all the other shit he has to deal with like irl issues, business issues, customers pming him left right and center either praising him or hating him for his products if he havent gotten to u yet then u probably not gonna hear anything for a long ass time just trash the motor cans. Sell the trucks and go by a gear drive drivetrain and motors from one of the many reliable company’s who makes motors for gear drive/belt drive systems, build it and be happy with ur life and chalk the money u spent on these dd as a loss. Hard to hear but at this point ur crying for help in a deep well in a forest where no one can hear u at this point. And if u love dd motors like i do and you want to go back to them one day u can wait for a new company to come out with reliable, strong high performance dd motor drive trains for u to buy or wait for Dex to fix all the current issues with the his motors watever issues it maybe and then rebuy them later on if thats wat u want to do. But im saying all this cause i do feel hell of bad u going through this but at a certain point u need to know when to call it quits and move on.
Honestly my motors would probably be in that group too if I didn’t basically nolife these for a couple months while I waited for parts. The bearings don’t seem to have enough or maybe the right grease inside, which is weird because they say they’re made in japan so I don’t think it’s a quality issue. I wonder if they aren’t set up to spin that fast without some extra grease. Then stack the issue that it’s easy to overtighten unless you add some speed washers behind the wheel and you get like the 3 sets of motor failures you see here at least it seems? I think the overtightening might be a new thing where tolerances changed in manufacturing? It sucks there arent some better instructions because imo it could be prevented after you scour 500+ posts lol. Other issues I don’t know but there really isn’t much to these motors aside from the two bearings front and back that hold the core. Unfortunately without people doing some disassembly of the broken motors we will never really know if its just bearings, loose magnets or burned windings.
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Spent $900 and call it a loss? I don’t think so.
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Have a similar problem with a set I have now, haven’t looked at fixing them yet, also new.
Another set I have had had a bad grind noise and constant flux linkage issues.
When you tighten the wheel you can push the can over the stator, basically shit jambs up a bit inside. I have fixed this issue by loctiting the bearings in. This holds the motor together and stops things sliding.
Also more speed rings before putting the wheel on to prevent the lateral loading on the motor. This worked a treat now a few hundred k’s in on that one
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Do your motors have the circlip on the inside? That should be only reason why they slide, I dunno if those versions have a slot for an outside one. It’s true with some of the machining it seems if you tighten too much without speedrings behind the wheel, not just behind the nut it jams up the motor because it just puts more pressure on the bearings sideways. If you’re familiar with regreasing bearings I would highly recommend it on these, mine out of the box needed it badly. I believe it helped with the grinding if you over tighten a bit.
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This clearly shows the issue, there is only one big circlip retaining the big bearing. The can slides over the stator when the wheel is tightened, you could put a spacer between the stator and small bearing but I just use a permanent bearing retaining compound to fix it.
You can see it’s tight and binding, then one professional smack with a dirty hammer and presto. Spinning magnificeno.
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Lol, It would be better to use a socket bit that fits that piece but if you’re good with a hammer then whatever. I’ve taken one of my motor cans apart by taking the circlip off and tapping that center piece out with a hammer + socket bit. I find it’s easier to put back together with a vice though to get more precision. The way it goes together you can shim with household stuff and a small vice rather than disassembly that either requires tapping that piece out or a bigger press and jig.
Point of that is I think you could also shim under the big bearing outer or inner? edge so the core can’t travel sideways anymore? Really depends what is moving. Has your bearing retaining compound been a permanent fix? Which one did you use?
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I am a pro with a hammer, 29years professional hammer swinger👊🏻
Shimming the big bearing won’t work.as the stator and shaft can still slide.
A spacer between the stator and smaller bearing should do the job.
638 or 648 should do the job, I used loctite 638
I got a 6804 bearing 20mm id 7mm wide, turned the inner race down to 6mm and used that as a spacer! The retaining compound looks to be a permanent fix, but it’s pretty permanent 
as in hard to take the motor apart again. So I’m trying the spacers on this one
I should add the hammer was to demonstrate the movement, I use jigs and press’s for disassembly and re assembly
image|375x500
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Yeah but isn’t the back side of the stator pressed into the center of the big bearing? There has to be some movement in the back too for that to happen. You say the can slips so it slips on the front but that also means it slips on the back too no? Unless each half of the motor lives in parallel universes joined by some anomly and you are the victim of this. If I’m visualizing this right the space between the circlip and the outside of the big bearing is where it has some movement if that front part is moving for you. That or the inside of the big bearing isn’t pressed right allowing the stator to move inside as well.
Either way good you got a fix to that, the retaining compound looks like a good way to fix a loose bearing but maybe using it very sparingly is best.
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There is no alternative universes. The big bearing sits between the clip and a lip in the can, the stator isn’t a tight press fit it can still slide through further. The spacer I implemented stops this.
The shims you talk about stop you moving the can by force but it dosnt stop the can from being able to move.
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I’m just saying that if you have a problem like the diagram here with the red arrows pointing undesired movement causing binding; can or stator, there has to be movement at the blue or yellow section. Is the inside of the big bearing loose too? There is an internal lip in the back too right? I only took mine apart briefly so I don’t remember but I guess your machining is bit weird there. Sure it works fine to shim the front but the back has to be loose too for that much movement during use.
