HFI was not working that well on my DD’s.
Maybe if somebody managed to get the HFI parameters for the 90KV, I would like to know it.
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Brake regen is a fix.
You should be able to use Smart Reverse without issue. I believe, I’ve tried it with no issues previously.
Haven’t tried HFI yet.
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Are you saying the Smart Reverse can work good without sensors ?
@torqueboards After trying it out, Smart reverse does not work without Sensors, and HFI is useless with the DD. I tried all possibilities, but it doesn’t work. So my question is, is there a possibility to fix the sensors ?
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If the actual components are dead and it’s not a simple broken solder joint on sensor board situation. Replace the whole assembly. There’s a good chance this works: https://alienpowersystem.com/shop/rc-ev-accessories/electronics/internal-pcb-with-hall-effect-sensors-120-degree/
Unless Dex has extras but that’s pretty niche to have.
I am also doing this on my elofty DD’s and its been working great 
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@torqueboards Hey Dex, I recieved my kit about a week ago in 4 business days from US to the UK. Insane speed. So far I am really impressed with the drives & wheels, although havnt done too many miles yet.
It appears one of the drives (not the one with missing screws) has more rolling resistance than the other. This motor also gets between 8-10 degrees hotter whilst riding. After 5 miles of moderate riding today the hotter can was at 80 degrees whilst the other was at 70.
Is this something you would expect to see or something I need to watch? Not really sure if you would expect to see that big of a difference in motor temp or not.
Anybody with DDs have any similar experience?
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Can you post a video of spinning them up?
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I can and will do tomorrow morning!
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Although I run the first gen elofty DDs, and they’re a completely different beast, I think having one motor that has more resistance when spun by hand is ‘normal’ with DDs.
My right side sounds different and is slightly more difficult to turn by hand but under load I don’t notice a thing.
Funny enough, the left motor heats up more than my right motor. Running the board belly up with the throttle at 50% it’ll average 4-6f higher than the right motor. Unfortunately I’ll never know what it translates to when riding, since my motors don’t have any temp sensors.
Food for thought
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As you can see, it’s pretty minor… I just wonder how that adds to such a temp difference. I also noticed (couldn’t re create in video) that if I apply very limited throttle, I can make one can spin and not the other. I assume due to marginal restance difference in the roll.
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@Sn4Pz Good to know. Seems very similar to mine, I imagine it’s completely normal, just manufacturing tolerance.
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I have a problem with one of my motors coming loose from the truck. I can slide it off and on. It works as advertised but should I do some thing about it? I
Tb110s
You can email us and send a vid. Hard to know what your issue is without a video.
TB110’s
How to fix this loose can/bearing?
With adapter on i can do the same 360 degree with the wheel on top of the adapter it only slides around on a certain certain degree of the can rotated
It makes ticking noise while riding. Does not sound fresh got this from the start of owning them only put 300km on these drives so far cause afraid of cops also the front trucks right axle was loose while untightening nut of wheel so i used bison metal epoxy to glue that tight again
20200719_153519_1
I’ve got the TB DDs as well, and had the very same issue with them out of the box. The temp sensors on Unity showed one side at 63 degree and the other at 40 degrees after a 10 mile ride. I had also burned through a high wh/mile figure which was concerning.
Turned out that on side was over tightened on the wheel nut, and a quarter turn out releived the friction this nut was causing. Wh/m returned to normal afterwards and both sides span freely again.
I also had the knocking sound from one side than many others have posted. This was fixed with a shim, again it’s been done loads on here already.
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These videos may help:
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