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TorqueBoards Direct Drive Motor Kit

to pile on… i used some thermal tape as i found 3m “33” tape was too thick.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FR45DV/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=A2UPOYF43ISB1E&psc=1

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A few days ago I drove around again with my TBDD build after a long winter break. Still the best decision i have made.

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Me too. Absolutely in love with this motors

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That makes us 3 :slight_smile: still wish I had the 75kv instead of the 90kv, managed a top speed of 40mph once, scary as hell

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Hey guys.
I am new here. This is my first time building electric skate and i would need a lot of help. I have just buyed 90kv direct drive motor and 12s4p battery pack. I am struggling where and how to connect all wires from motor to my TORQUE ESC BLDC. I have conncected black blue and yellow wire, but where do i need to connect 4th.
How do i connect my esc with nano remote controler?
How do i connect 2 esc with each other?
How do i programm esc and what settings should i select?

list of parts:
90kv direct drive
12s4p battery pack
2x TORQUE ESC BLDC ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROLLER
1x VESC CANBUS
2x VESC male to male
1x 2.4GHZ NANO REMOTE CONTROLLER
1x mini uscb cable

I am grateful for all information and help :slight_smile:

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Please ask some questions here

And also start your own build thread

@BillGordon might be nice enough to bump your account

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You can just connect the three big wires (for each motor) and set up the ESC in “unsensored” mode if you want to. In fact, I recommend it.

Offtopic but I find it a bit ironic that you’re willing to use FW 4 for the HFI feature with some known issues rather than Ackmaniac and a sensor in the motor.

I mainly use Ackmaniac 3.103 without sensors. Only one skate has 4.1 on it, as a test.

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Hello Dexter @torqueboards,

I have an issue with one of my motors. It has never been used or even plugged to power for now. While mouting the 110s I saw that one motor have a weird resistance when I roll it with my hands :
One is very easy to roll, very smooth. The other is harder to roll and even become harder at certain part of the rotation.

Thanks to many helpful advices on the noob questions thread, here is what I tried :

  • Tested making sure the phase wires are not touching

  • Checked the phase wires resistances with a multimeter, everything is the same on both motors
    image

  • Checked if the kegel adapters screws were not too long / did damage anything (It does not seems possible using the screws you included anyway).

  • The axle nut is not too tight, in fact the resistance is still there without wheel or nut.

Should we arrange a return or do you want me to test something else before ? Could this be an issue with a magnet / windings ?

Thanks.

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@Edratuom You can email us. :+1:

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Long shot but you can try putting a speed ring in between the wheel and the drive because that helped mine have no resistance. Good luck man.

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Try reseating the bearing underneath the wheel adapter. When you take off the adapter, if you notice any wear on the inside of the adapter or any fine metal shavings you know it’s the bearing coming a bit loose.

I had the same thing, small bearing coming out a bit and rubbing on the adapter. If there’s fine metal shavings, clean them up. I used an old longboard wheel and a hammer (rubber mallet might be better) to knock the bearing back in place, making sure to only tap on the outer race and not the shield.

I printed a little nylon spacer that goes between just the outer race and the wheel adapter to keep the bearing in place and I haven’t had any more issues.

@torqueboards I think there should be a little notch for the wheel adapters to just press on the outer race of that bearing instead of the whole thing. I can post up the nylon shim/spacer I use in a little while.

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@Skatardude10 That was fixed about 4-5 months ago. New adapters will have a bearing seat.

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I don’t mean to be that guy, but why is this 700 freaking dollars. I realize this is most likely from having to cover costs of molds and such, but come on man, they are motors with heatsinks on the can that act as half your hanger for your truck, isn’t a belt drive better and significantly cheaper?

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both are good.

Hub motors are cheap because china makes them dime a dozen. Direct drive is new, not dime a dozen quite yet. Then add a good brand with some profit in.

Value is there for a new technology

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@Rob

to pile on what Quinn stated in the post immediately preceding this one, let’s not underestimate the intersection of supply and demand.

additionally my personal experience with @torqueboards has been pleasant and enjoyable. Dexter has provided quick turn around in both product shipping and in technical support.

additionally its good form to mention someone when directing question or comment their way (even if they are the OP on the thread).

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@Rob It’s designed and priced for a high performance setup. If we made it a budget setup it would be far from the same setup that you purchase now. We would of sacrificed for cheaper trucks, bushings and much smaller motors.

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I’ll give it to you, it’s neatly designed, and the use of that massive bearing is quite ingenious. The awkwardly shorter length of the front truck gets on ones ocd but you sneaky buggers already know every guy that makes an order is probably just going 4x4 and buys two drives anyway. Considering you factor in probably 300$ retail value of your own parts, (wheels - 110$, trucks - 160$, hardware and those bushings “$31.95 value” :hushed:) those motors by themselves would probably cost 350 on your markups anyway, but you would make a crap ton more sales… don’t know why you don’t offer that as an option smh.

Obviously not for me, but a cool setup at that! This is what makes builds different and I love it. Keep innovatin :call_me_hand:

@Rob front and rear truck are same length.

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