Eek.
Am i reading that right? There’s a label that’s been made and you got a refund?
The support bracket was out of stock/ discontinued so he refunded the brackets only and was supposed to ship the motors but only a tag was created never actually shipped out yet.
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unless Dex got someone in China doing the QC, my 12s4p 30q pack was shipped from china, and it didn’t work after i charged it 
@torqueboards maybe i can a half refund on that? 
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Doesn’t stuff ship out of texas? Which is currently closed for 
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That I don’t know, if it is why would someone say 3 times now it will ship out and never moves.
We need a lot more details to draw any decent conclusion. But I will say it’s pretty nuts to look at the entire group where the problem likely originated seemingly just gone. And the one adjacent cell exploded open.
That’s going to blow up the charger no? I’ve shorted charge ports before and it burn the short out of existence much quicker than could cause a full pack meltdown. I’m tempted to reverse a charge port now and see what happens.
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Last time I did this it blew up my very treasured 12s 8amp charger 
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That really confirms my hypothesis. Tho an 8A charger should have a fuse or two internally that might have saved the important stuff.
However, I do have a 42V2A charger that is essentially useless… so I mean for science…
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Those aren’t useless; I can use those 
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It did have a fuse…however that fuse won’t save your charger, it will save your house. In the time it takes to blow that fuse, all the electronic components in your charger will have fried 10 times over.
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I got 42V5A chargers for the 10S crowd. 2A is like a leaky faucet filling up a cup lol
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I love the 1.8A and 2A chargers.
When you have 3 skates already charged, there’s pretty much never a reason to use a higher charge current. It’s just slightly reducing your battery lifetime for little benefit.
If I don’t have any charged, or need one charged fast, sure I will put it on a 5A charger or on two 2A chargers.
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I’m leaning towards this theory as well.
OP said:
Ya mine was full on combustion, like a pack of fireworks and it all started between the BMS and the battery pack . I know the whole diy thing but the BMS and battery pack I had zero to do with.
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You would hope that the BMS would stop the short-circuit current quickly though. Has anyone tested that TB model?
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Good question, although if a random dude on Reddit built the board and most likely wired the charge port the other way round, he could have maybe even bypassed the BMS all together lol
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The TB bms is a rebranded and maybe modified Daly.
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I was wondering about that, it sure looks like a Daly!
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This strikes me as an indication he’s isn’t placing any blame on the esc’s, not that it was literally started between the bms and battery. Just that those two items were most likely the initial problem. He seemingly has very little knowledge on the details of diy and isn’t posting much info.
Based on that first pic the largest visible failure is the L4 group which all exploded and only the caps seem to be there or the L1 group which is completely gone, who know why. With most of the right side fine, I think it has to have start with that L4 group. Maybe it was from the bms traces breaking or something of that nature. But I really can’t imagine a little Daly not going poof before cells would hit thermal run away.
Also I’m told you can get a charge port with battery from TB. If that’s the case, and the fuse was not included, I personally can’t lay blame for that theory on the user. I don’t ship packs without fused charge ports, because that’s not something someone buying a build pack should have to install themselves IMO.
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As a builder I think it should be standard practice to include a fuse unless otherwise specified, and to test the pack with a known good charger (like 1 minute to verify it works). A little effort goes a long way, I’d much rather spend an additional 10 minutes to reduce the risk of one of my packs going up in flames
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