Ignore this post, just leaving it here for reference
Putting up my badly documented daily commuter build from last year.
-Evolve carbon deck with GTR DKP trucks (modified evolve motor mount front, OPK 63mm rear mounts)
-Stock CGT enclosure + Additional bottom enclosure with 3D printed spacer
-Dual Unity, Flipsky VX2 Pro via UART
-Flipsky 5055 200kV front motors reverse mounted (for aesthetics purposes only)
-Maytech 6365 200kV rear motors
-12s8p 30Q battery in parallel 12s4p form, stacked. D140 charge only BMS
-15-29t gearing to ABEC 107s. Top speed allegedly 50mph loaded. (Best I’ve done is 45something before I got scared so idk what it really does) Edit
-Now running 120mm Foamies, geared 15-36t. 5mph hit on top speed, better acceleration and AT capabilities.
Settings:
Battery: 60A front, 100A rear, 160A total
Motor: 35A per front motor, 70A per rear motor, 210A total motors.
Regen: -30A front, -20A rear, -50A total
-Misc features:
Dual charge/discharge ports (for accessories like lights)
Individually addressable/programmable RGB under glow + spoiler tail light (for bling)
Wireless QI charging pad integrated into spoiler (and matching in remote, never get caught with a dead remote if I forget my cables as long as the board has power. Works for compatible phones too)
Quick release low profile headlight mount, draws power from 2nd charge port
Spoiler adds +1HP
LEDs are all segments of WS2812B 5050 strips, 20 low density LEDs per side, 20 high density rear, for 60 LEDs total, running on a SP108E WIFI controller, powered at 5V from main battery using dual LM2596HV step down module.
Yup, exactly that. Just 5.5mm barrels in parallel connected to the BMS. Had an extra hole, thought I’d use it. Any accessory I plug in will use their own step down to whatever voltage it requires
Just an adjustable RC damper loaded with diff fluid and a custom shimmed piston that stops high speed movements. Not really noticable normally but keeps the back end from whipping when hitting big rocks n crap at speed.
I was doing some speed runs yesterday on a dirty greenway and noticed that sticks and rocks would cause the real to dance around.
Id like to be able to remove one of the king pins to do faster riding and add it back when I want to carve. But I need different motor mounts to be able to clear the deck.
You can also try some solid zero rebond bushings in the lower kingpin to eliminate movement. Basically makes it a single kingpin.
Something like a solid metal 10mm spacer.
It took some time to get comfortable with it but I love it, all the low speed carvy feel and still can punch out with speed whenever I want. Fairly comfortable to me up till 35ish, past that and it starts to show its colors
It definitely does. I’ve always found bushing hardness is more important than tightening it down. I’ve got standard rebound 90a on the front and 95a on the rears with only about a turn of compression road side and 2 turns board side, at about 170-180ish lbs geared up.