Sure, here is photos:
Measured lipos dimensions, ordered plates (its really cheap) and tighten it with duct tape for packaging
Measured lipos dimensions, ordered plates (its really cheap) and tighten it with duct tape for packaging
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Thanks! I thought it would be pretty confusing but those diagrams are pretty easy to follow.
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There are some confusing parts, like some BMS don’t have a B0. The one in the bottom two images does, the one in the top image doesn’t have one connected.
If it has B0 though it’s connected to B- internally, so in a bypass configuration, if it’s lacking B0, you’d need to connect a small size wire to B-. And in a discharge configuration you’d already have a fat wire connected to B- so it wouldn’t matter.
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Truth.
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Is the inference here that a loopkey / a/s is not required if you discharge through the BMS?
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Yeah but there are a few reasons why I don’t recommend discharging through the BMS.
Knowing how to do it isn’t bad though.
Just don’t do it 
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It’s only annoying because of the packs in parallel, and it’s still probably easier than building a lion pack. I don’t end up needing to pull it that often because I run Bluetooth BMS to keep an eye on it. BMS Recommendations
I talk about the BMS a lot in his thread and get into the wiring specifically.
As far as longevity goes, I have used it now for a year and a half with no noticeable change in capacity. That being said, I don’t often run the pack all the way empty.
I also saw someone mention that you can get good money for used lipos, and I agree. Even after a good deal of use the cells seem pretty new, and could probably fetch at least half of what I bought them for.
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Same settings? I was under the impression that the v6 can handle more power and maybe slightly smoother but same settings as a v4 should ride the same for the most part.
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Yeah, I’m not sure why but I thought it had something to do with the V6 hardware upgrades.
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Out of the 2 witch one do you like [quote=“JoeyZ5, post:108, topic:50988, full:true”]
You will need a loopkey/antispark for the Maker X though.
[/quote]
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I’d use a loopkey on either one, or any any ESC, even if it has a soft switch.
You don’t have to unplug the key, but having the option is nice 
The Spintend does 17S and the MakerX does 12S max
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I think the extra $80 for the spintend is worth it. You get a remote, antispark, and those cool horn/light ports.
Edit: and bluetooth
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Spintend Ubox will retain resale value better as well
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i thought they removed the AS in the later version?
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I just looked at the spintend, that’s the one I’m going to go with. Anybody have personal experience with that one?
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I used it on my 12S MTB build. Actually pretty similar to your setup, with two 14Ah LiPos and dual 6374s. No complaints with it, the remote’s pretty nice and everything was plug and play. Integrated Bluetooth is surprisingly useful, as I can now make changes to the VESC configuration without having to pop open the enclosure. It’s a little larger than some of the other ESCs out there thanks to the heat sink/enclosure, but not terribly so, especially if you cut off the tabs on the side.
Only thing I haven’t been able to figure out is how to get reverse working without changing the input mode in setup, but it’s not a huge deal since the number of times I’ve actually needed it in the past two years have been exactly 0.
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Yeah I remember hearing that at some point now
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AS had been replaced with an XT90S connector, which isn’t too annoying. If you never unplug the battery you can just use the button to turn it on.
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I’ll have to figure out reverse. Sometimes it’s nice to be able to back up if you end up in the middle of the street when you have to slam on the brakes:yum:
Anyone know current consumption with the unit off?
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