Introduction
Hello beautiful people,
I’ve been away from esk8 for a while after my late board’s battery passed away.
After almost a year I decided I could not stand watching this dead skate laying arround and I tryed selling it.
Well, instead of selling it, I traded it for moArrr parts, the demon got me again, and here I am working on two new builds, an MTB that I will take slowly as I’m a bit broke at the moment, and a street board that I’m putting up mostly out of parts I already have laying arround.
This topic is about the second one, I have some weird ideas and I’ll try to make it differently.
For once I’ll try to make a real build thread with steps and regular updates instead of waiting to finish the board and then never actualy write it because I’m lazy.
Expectations
What I want is a board that wont be heavy to carry, while giving me medium range and a reasonable top speed.
I tryed to build two short lightweigt boards already and I didn’t like them, so I want it to be light but with the longest deck possible and as low on ground as it is possible.
Also I want this build to justify all of the tools and machines I compulsively hoarded in the last years: mostly my lasercut and maybe it will motivate me to get my 3D printer back on working order.
Parts
(all of that I already have:)
deck : restorated evo 40’
drivetrain : exway hubs
sismic aeons trucks and exway 85mm thanes
2x makerx mini foc
litebms
infinity logger
remote : fs vx2
(that is on it’s way:)
12s1p p45b battery (Will I be the first one one the forum with a p45b pack ? )
Doubts and weird ideas
I want this build to be low on ground and as easy to service as possible so I envisage to top mount the bat and electronics,
I’m planning to make a low profile enclosure just the height of a 21700 bat + esc : 31mm+ as few mm as needed for the enclosure itself, and to have it on the middle of the board,
I’m thinking about laser cutting a structure in plywood and cover it with some lightweight metal sheet I have around.
It would be perfect to have it oppen on the side and the electronics slind inside. This way I can griptape it on the top alongside the rest of the board and use it like it was part of the shape of the deck.
(I need to make a sketch of that, my description isn’t realy clear)
question 1 : How do I route the motor leads from the middle of the board to the motors without adding weigth and complexity ?
question 2 : I mounted the trucks on the deck to try it, and the standing platform is a good 4-5cm higher than the one of my dropcat, maybe I can cut the deck to make it drop-through ? How sketchy and dangerous would that be ?
Step 1 : restoring the deck
I got this Evo 40’ spectrum deck from @haven
it’s in a realtively good shape but has a few holes and bumps.
I need too :
- Removing the grip tape and glued gasket
- fill and sand the bumps and the holes I wont be using,
- paint the board white and make some minimalist graphics on it: I can use the underside as I won’t bolt an enclosure under it.
questions: The deck come from LY painted black, do I need to sand it clean before I can paint on it again ?
Can I clean the glue with acetone or would this andanger the deck by attacking the glue between the plys ?