You triggered something fairly pointless lol, you’re fine. Brians just a stickler for proper labels
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The docs are listed a few posts up.
Here is the relevant section
Depending on the ESC you’re using the communications port can be arranged in a number of ways, but bear in mind the receiver requires 5V to work. If you want to have battery monitoring for your board in the remote, make sure to take a cable directly from the positive end of your battery and solder it to the VBAT pad in the receiver.
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Exactly right! Wiring up the s/+/- cables to the VESC PPM/PWM port 5V and GND is enough, but the VBAT pad is required to get battery readings. @CrazedMK
The contacts on the bottom for 5V/GND are only used in the transmitter.
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Great, thanks, that’s what I wanted to understand! I’ll try to create RX connection diagram, I hope you’are open for new pull requests 
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Oddball question, but are there pins free on tx and rx that could be used for a second channel to control something like lights (on/off)?
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Yes, there are! What’s missing is a second button on the PCB to control them, but the I/O is there.
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Any chance I can convince you to upload the f3d files for the v2 pcbs on the thumbwheel remote @thunkar?
I’m not sure what you mean, the PCB CAD files are uploaded to the cad/misc folder in f3d format. Do you want to see the actual assembly, like this?
BTW, sorry for the absence guys, but I’ve been on vacation. Even though my activity on the forum has been low, I kept testing the latest software version and increased the testing circle of this build to 4 people, with 0 issues reported after riding the whole summer.
The next thing I’m gonna focus on is battery feedback from the remote, since I run out of juice on my unit after not charging it for 2 weeks and it cut out during riding. I was prepared for it, but I think it’s important to give the user a proper heads up and even reduce power slowly if the remote is not sufficiently charged.
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Close - the thumbwheelBase.f3d still uses the old layout? It looks like the stl has had the v2 pcb commit, but not the f3d file
You’re absolutely right. I have actually updated all cases so they hold the V2 PCB, I’ll try to get them uploaded ASAP.
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I forgot the step-up converter for 5V so I’m waiting on that to come from china still, but otherwise I’m on the verge of gettting some shells printed and final assembly on the horizon.
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Done, all designs have been updated except for the roundAlt variant (I’m making it smaller and the top part still needs some modifications).
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Thanks a lot! that was fast
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Coming together nicely.
If only i could get rid of avr dude telling me my programmer is not responding. Worked alright for rx but tx is taking some more time
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Not going to lie, this build is one of the most challenging i’ve done. For the life of me I cannot prevent the pads from lifting off the pcb unless my wire run is perfect. Any tips to prevent pad lifting?
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Steady hands
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You mean the pads for the LoRa module or the rest of the wires?
Make sure you’re using enough heat and healthy amounts of flux. What type of solder and soldering iron are you using? I’m used to replacing DRVs so I’m biased, but please let me know what you find difficult so the PCB layout can be improved.
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I found good success with regular flux cored 63/37 solder. I used 0.8mm on the LoRa Module and 1mm on the rest. No additional flux. It probably would have been easier and a little cleaner with more flux but IMO it’s not necessary. Just good solder.
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Lora is easy no problem. Its the hall effect and voltage step up thats the issue, particularly vbatt and signal. Would through holes be possible for those parts of the pcb? I do have a new iron on the way too.
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V1 had through hole pads, but they take up more space which directly led to wider PCBs. I wonder if some settings could be tweaked when ordering from JLCPCB to avoid lifted pads, but I’ve never had that issue with the 10+ units I’ve soldered…how many watts does your soldering iron provide and how hot does it get? Do you have to maintain it on the pad for a long time? Is the tip in good condition?
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