Do you have any extras? I need a pcb to test the remote and just haven’t felt like ordering any form jlcpcb.
Yeah I should have 2 spare PCBs unless I mess up the reciever.
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I’ve been working on a little remote mod as a way to dip my toes in some cad modeling, coincidentally I had arrived at almost the same thumbstick implementation! I think I had that same aliexpress vendor for bearings linked lol. I prefer your hall sensor over getting a reliable and small potentiometer though, totally gonna steal that
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Remote unit
It was a little harder to solder the LoRa module the 2nd time around.
There’s the hard part done. Now to make my 3d printer work long enough to make a nice shell.
@sierra117 I have 1 new board and 2 fucked up boards to spare if you need.
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Update
Check out progress on the docs. You can access the ordering guide and a preliminary assembly guide following the links on the README.
There’s a lot of stuff missing, but please (specially you guys @jaykup and @tech.shit) verify you have followed at least the steps that do exist and read the warnings carefully (LoRa antenna selection and Arduino reset button removal).
Shells are not yet updated to PCB V2 (except for the regular thumbwheel version). Will try to get it up to speed today.
Missing from the guides ATM:
- Thumbwheel/sensor installation.
- FW flashing and configuration.
- 3D printing recomendations.
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Update
What’s up party people!
Docs are complete (at least a first version) and “official” shell updates are underway. Life’s been complicated and writing guides suck, but I’m trying to take pictures and make sure everything is easy to follow. Also shoutout to @jaykup for letting me use his pics for the guide!
Let’s get those remotes up and running!
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Does anyone have extra parts for one complete dual trigger build they are willing to part with? Shell/3d printed parts are not needed, nor are batteries for shipping safety. Would be willing to buy them off you, trade you for 3d print time, skate gear, etc. Located in Texas.
I have spare bearings, magnets, hall sensors, springs, a usb 1s charging board and a PCB.
You’d still need a 2nd PCB and Arduino boards and LoRa modules but it’s a start.
Update
Well, today was a mixed bag. I have been checking out the improvements suggested here:
and in the process run again into the lock up bug that haunted me here:
I’ve spent most of the day trying to reproduce it and finally I think I got it to reliably trigger. It all boils down to the library I’m using to control the SX1280 module…it has a lot of functionality but the particular way I’m using it (interrupt mode for high throughput + switching between tx/rx modes to receive telemetry) is not well documented nor used in the provided examples. To my horror, I’ve discovered that when used in interrupt mode (no delay or ugly stuff but actively waiting for a pin to switch from low to high) the library skips a bunch of checks and interrupt cleanup of the module itself, which leads to the weird behavior I’m experiencing.
Even though I’m clocking about 1000km on my particular unit without issues, I’ve refactored that particular bit of code and added manual checks and timeouts that the library skips in interrupt mode. On the particular case I managed to generate (manually pulling the interrupt pins to ground hooked up to my scope), I went as far as reconfiguring the LoRa itself to start fresh and make sure the subsequent interrupts are correctly triggered.
These kind of issues are the trickiest ones, but I’m commited to making this the most reliable remote possible. The latest update to the code is published to github and I just came back from a night ride (it’s 2:40AM here) without issues using the problematic unit.
Onwards!
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Hopefully no hardware changes are needed. I’m just trying to get my printer working enough to make shells then I’ll have my remote assembled.
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Absolutely impressive sir, keep up the good work!
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I’m pretty sure it was pure software, I wouldn’t worry about that. Future hardware revisions will only be convenience stuff (for example a good voltage reference to avoid having to calibrate the Arduino one).
Tonight I’m gathering 4 boards with unfancies to stress test the fix. Will keep the laptop in the backpack just in case I have to diagnose something on the go, but I’m pretty confident everything I forced yesterday on the bench is way more disruptive than anything it could face during actual use.
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Awesome to hear. I’m so close to being able to test this project out. Keep the good news coming!
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Awesome night ride, 0 issues with the newer version 
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Started with searching remote for vesc to upgrade my onsra - ended up there, ordering 30 pcb and already soldering 2 rx/tx sets, just in case, you know?
Newbie question - what’s correct connection diagram for rx module? Should it have any additional power, or ppm connection is sufficient to power it up?
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VESC is mislabeled, that is a PWM connection, not PPM.
Yeah, I know that it’s pwm, but everyone is calling it ppm now, because… reasons🤷🏻♂️
It’s not PPM.
Do you know them?
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Umm, guys, maybe I dunno, I said some trigger phrase or smth, but do we really need to discuss terminology right now? If so, I don’t think that I’m qulified for that 
.
Anyways, my question was - what is correct way of connecting rx module to vesc/esc? I understand that I need to connect 3 wires (labeled as ppm on board, s/+/-), but is that enough? Or I need to prowide additional power to the rx module using vbat +/- contacts?
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