Use a mix of 70% siraya blu and 30% tenacious. It will be impact resistant, but any high loads will cause warping, but I don’t think that will be an issue.
I’ve used this in applications that experience far higher stresses than a remote.
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Okay, I’ve had some time to sit down and take a look at the cad files. I added a palm swell to the round shell and I’m printing it right now to see how it feels.
I have some questions/comments that might be helpful.
For the trigger version, it looks like you are using 8mm ID bearings (I’m guessing skate bearings?) These are super oversized for this application, so if you want to slim the trigger down, you could use 3mm or 5mm ID bearings. I would also recommend using a shoulder bolt to secure them. This makes sure the plastic post isn’t going to deform, and adds rigidity to the case.
For the springs, there seems like a lot of wasted space in the front of the trigger (see picture)
You could probably use torsion springs instead of tension springs, then use that space that you have made to stick a 18350 battery up there.
Your other option, seeing as you are already using magnets for the hall effect sensors, is to use magnets to act as the spring. It may take some tweaking and tuning, but I believe you could add magnets to the housing that interact with the magnets in the trigger and they would create a spring effect.
Laying your hall sensors flat against the bottom of the case and creating a notch in the trigger may allow you to make it more compact/increase room for other activities.
Just some thoughts. I’m going to continue playing with the cases in cad and see what I can come up with.
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This would have the added benefit of great trigger feel
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Palm swell print finished. Feels pretty nice. For what it is worth, I have pretty large hands, so the puck feels a bit small to me, and I can’t get my thumb on the trigger area properly.
You may be able to stack the electronics if you use a palm swell, freeing up some room as well.
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I see more room to stick an 18530
How big would a mechanism to allow for interchangable lipo pouch batteries be? It looks to me like a good alternative to using lion batteries.
It’s going to be very similar. The hardest part of the design would be finding an easy way to replace the batteries without tools that can be 3d printed. Maybe a type of hinge or something. Then you would have to deal with the connector as well.
I think an 18350 or larger is doable, the biggest thing is getting the trigger mechanisms smaller, and the circuitry more compact.
It also appears that I may be holding the puck upside down. Oddly enough, that way feels most comfortable for me. If I transfer it to my right hand and orient it correctly, the curve for my palm is a bit off and it feels like it wants to slip out the bottom of my hand.
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Alright, I messed with the original shell a bit and relocated the thumbwheel. I can still add about another 3/8 of an inch of palm swell on it, but my hands are big. I think I’m going to flesh this design out a bit more and see how I can place the electronics inside and what room is left.
Only concern is placement of the LoRa module. If it’s in the palm swell your hand may block a ton of RF, so that might need some testing.
This might even be adaptable to a trigger style, I think a trigger could be put on the index finger quite easily.
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9.5mm
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Alright, last post of the night.
I’m still trying to figure out the kinematics of this, but it gives you a forward thumb button and a trigger in a puck style remote. This is only the right hand side, but looks like there can be a lot of room in it.
Maybe use a 3 piece construction where the triggers and some electronics are housed in a center section, then the palm swells can be attached to each side. This would allow you to more easily assemble it, segregate electronics, and you could have different palm swells for other style hands. Just a thought.
Let me know your thoughts. Like I said, I have all of 5 minutes of actually using a remote so I don’t have any real world experience with the variety of designs.
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Here’s a random dumb idea:
Trigger+wheel/knob
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Awesome! Love the contributions and ideas. Regarding your points:
- Yeah, I use 8mm bearings but not standard skate ones. They’re actually replacement bearings for Turnigy SK8 motors with ID 8mm and OD 14mm. I had them at hand and at any rate I needed the diameter to give the magnets enough distance to move to and away from the sensor.
- I agree that the usage of space of the mechanisms is very inneficient. I was going for simplicity but can definitely be improved.
- You’re going for the design the opposite way that I did, focusing on ergonomics and then trying to fit stuff inside. This is great, don’t get me wrong, but you might run into space issues due to the size of the components.
- Love the palm swells, but I would definitely print them as separate pieces and find an attachment mechanism.
I’m gonna try and upload the individual components in .step format so you can get an idea of the required space! It would be awesome to have community sourced shells so anyone can choose their preferred style 
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Yea that would be super helpful for getting an idea of the required layout. The less on the pcb might have to be moved/changed for certain configurations. Maybe a single rgb led could replace the current leds for some space savings?
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Update
The new stuff:
- Firmware that uses a lot less program memory and RAM (by just decluttering debugging stuff)
- A crude “channel/identity” pairing mechanism that at the moment has to be baked into both TX and RX. There are 40 channels (using the recommended separation of 1.5*LoRa bandwidth) and up to 255 identities per channel…adding to a total of 10.200 remotes that can operate relatively close to one another.
- A misc folder in the CAD section containing all the internal components (BEWARE: PCB model is still V1, V2 is coming and it’s smaller) so the community can start desiging cases
- Updated CAD models for every remote design with the lanyard holes (.stl, .stp, f3d)
- Updated BOM with missing parts (vibration motor, lanyard)
Testing
3 Unfancy remotes working beautifully in the wild, in close proximity!
(I know, there are 4 boards there, but I didn’t have the time to assemble the fourth!)
Also, my first ride with the dual trigger reverse brake edition. I dig it.
Next steps
I have no other option but to order PCB V2! Unfortunately, development/testing has to slow down a little bit because yours truly finally did the adult thing 
and bought a house. Yes, there are awesome trails within spitting distance of the front door of the building, yes, you’re all invited.
HOWEVER, I need some time to move, settle down, get my shit together (and my finances in order) before I can get back in the saddle. I’ll try and put some hours in here and there, just not at the same pace. I’ll keep you guys posted!
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Sorry I didn’t get back to you on this. Regarding PCB size, I’m now basically constrained by the Arduino + LoRa footprints, individual components (LEDs for example) really don’t take up that much space. I’ll think about alternative layouts, but don’t expect it for V2.
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If/when you order pcb v2, I can test. I need a remote for my first build and it might as well be this one.
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I’d love to be a part of this development of this remote, been oogling this project since the OSSR guys wont let me in, something I’ve been thinking about alot a remote should with some minor modification to the layout be able to accept 1 or 2 21700 cells to simplify battery and improve performance.
Have you made any 3d models for all the components inside or have rough estimates of their shape and size, I could propably make some very crude remote layouts that allows the user to use 21700 cells (always wished the trampa wand would accept 21700 cells, so wanna make my dream come true).
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I think he just uploaded the components to the github, I haven’t checked them out yet, but I’m going to download them and pop them into an assembly to see how it all fits.
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