Yes, that is right.
Just follow the silkscreen wiring on the sticker.
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He definitely said to me that he was going to modify it to be NO in the future. (He said that back when I got the first version)
This means you could probably alter a Xenith or stormcore switch @2xbass.
Edit: ninjaād by the man himself.
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should be SW + GND
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Can anyone explain what this pulsing noise is with the motors. On 6.02 firmware. Just to rule out duty cycle I set the duty cycle current limit start to 100%
Normal behavior on the bench.
One of my motors is doing the same. I also noticed some weird rolling resistance on it, and seems to cut out/stutter above a certain speed on the bench
Sound below :
What I canāt get over is SKP put out a vid of him bench testing the new motors and they did not make this noise.
Also vedder himself has a video explaining how this sound is actually current spikes that need to be tuned out unless Iām mistaken/ misinterpreting the video.
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I was able to bypass SW + GND for now but would still like to have a switch in this particular case. I tried an old Unity switch but couldnāt get it to work but maybe Iām not wiring it correctly. What should I do with the two white wires coming off the switch? I tried either of these into the SW pin but didnāt work. Should they perhaps be connected?
one white to SW, another white to GND
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Thanks. And then where should the black wire go? Also to GND? Or just leave it?
im not confident enough to say wire it to the GND pin also, but the V+ and GND on the unity button is just for led lights, u donāt have to wire them if u donāt need it.
I did manage to get the Unity switch working with the DV4s. Upon closer inspection of the Unity switch, I noticed that one of switch pins was already bent down and soldered to the GND pin. I also noticed that the pin that the white wire was connected to (right-most pin in the photo below), had āNCā next to it at the base of the switch so I figured this switch must be usable as either NC or NO. I moved the white wire to the middle pin and now it all works as expected.
@frame thanks for your help.
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anyone know if theres a port on the dv4s for pack voltage +. i want to connect a flipsky vx4 remote.
also curious if anyone has used one of these remotes with this esc. the receiver calls for uart in the instructions but i can see a pin labled pwm.
i ended up just running a wire to the packs + line.
now my roadblock is getting the receiver to connect to the vesc over uart. iām seeing online that i need an arduino inbetween the vesc and the receiver. is this correct? if thats the case iāll ditch this project and go back to the hoyt puck.
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I use one but with ppm + uart.
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what are the benefits?
I find ppm smoother and you also get the telemetry. No need to use the blue wire on the receiver as the telemetry already shows the battery level
so the blue wire for battery + is only for those using ppm and not uart?