seems to work pretty nicely for now.
adjustable voltage range is about 39V to 58,5V and current adjustment works too.
I’ve not yet tested it over 10A yet because i don’t have a big enough battery to dump all that current into.
Epic! I wonder if you could use a bunch of high temp epoxy to battle harden in a sense that charger to make it last through lots of use/abuse. Given it’s form factor is possibly a backpackable charger.
The 24S2P/24S4P pouch cell battery and DC to DC I am making will be larger than a backpack by a bit.
That’s achtually a great idea! Maybe I’ll put some silastic on the bottom of some components to hold them secure from the vibrations. But I don’t want to put much because of airflow restriction. That thing already screams like a jet engine now xD
And actually it’s going on a big ebike trip soon. Formfactor is just perfect for the power it can output.
Hmmm that supply needs to breathe. Epoxy is going to cause premature heat death. You can strategically apply adhesive to the caps and larger loose components but otherwise I wouldn’t do much. Less is more.
I finished mine today c:
Huawei R4850G with that can bus controller and shunt with powerdisplay.
Not the prettiest inside but it’s safe and sure packs a punch.
This box also fits a 12S 6A charger, so when it is charging you remove the series connector(short!) and you can charge the two 12S packs in parallel. in order to not disconnect them in series you would need a 24S charger like for an EUC.
Ideally it would have two+ different cccv outputs but with just one it is still possible to charge more than one board as once as long as they are all close enough in charge. There is some math so that could be determined.
I suppose. I would have hoped that it would not just fry itself and instead limit but that is a lot to ask. Should have been monitoring it since it was the first time it was in the case running. Welp lesson learned for you all.
Looks like it could be just simple bad design and overheating of the trace. It occurred just where the trace necks down, where the big copper plane can’t pull away heat anymore and before the heat sinking effect of the diode’s beefy leg.
If replacing the diode fixes the problem you can use a beefier wire than what that trace provided so there isn’t a heating choke point at high current levels anymore.
Check around for other signs of heating and beef up whatever you can there too. More solder can help a little but it’s 10x the resistance of copper so a lot of solder only helps a bit.