Thanks!
My metal bumber turned out ok but i failed to account for the bending deformation in length and i ended up with it about 1mm to long, ugh.
Ended up with the typical crossbar. M4 standoffs with rod and tube.
Running the board with 12s 3p soon to be 4 or 5p undermounted.
Waiting on motors should ripping this weekend.
Also 20mm pulleys and belts!
I can virtually promise you they’re flipsky OEM with a custom bell and can, they’re not bad motors but they’re not great, and you’re supporting someone who’s stolen hundreds of thousands of dollars from this community. Not sure why you feel the need to post this.
The gears are 4130 chromoly and there are 4 stacked together. The ratio is 14/66
I may have posted this elsewhere two years ago but I never got around to riding because I was scared of a part failing. I think the gear aligner and petg should make a difference enough. Im worried about the big thrust bearing.
just need to find a 12s 3p or 4p to rebuild the electronics. The motors are 190 kv torque board open can and still kicking.
My diy 12s 5p p42a is acting up.
The 5th series group measured 3.934 while all other groups are testing 3.948 - 3.95.
I charged it fully earlier today and only charged to 50.3v, took it out for a ride, and am measuring groups now.
Do I charge it fully again and see where the low group is or do I balance the lagging 5p group?
Also I have the welds visable and all of them are seemingly good.
Ive decided to charge my 12s 5p fully and then probe the p groups to see which is unbalanced.
I have a new battery coming for the century.
Im also working on a frame for the stormcore, usb pass through, power button and charge port. This way the enclosure can act as a gaurd rather than the container. I had to order stainless stand offs, right now im testing the heights with brass.
Im using 1/2inch weather seal. The pass through got a bit messy but its still ok.
Im going to make some bridges down the underside of the deck where the remaining inserts are, acting as tie down points for the battery. This way the whole board can open up without having to worry about motor cables, a heavy battery coming loose while upside down etc.
Still have to cut the loop key port where those two holes are and make a panel to seal off the power button.
Im confident in the gears but still worried about the potential heat generatiom from the thrust bearing. Would you guys rip the gear drive? I go back and forth.
I ordered a 12s4p lishen pack from mboards. Its used but looks okay and fully charges. It was 250 dollars which I thought was a good price. The dimensions are 17x 7x 1 it should fit great where the velcro is. The subsonic underside uses 6x 5mm stand offs and 4 x 10mm standoffs at the corners. Its sealing nicely but im not happy with the power button/charge port seal, as well as the motor cables. Im really interested in the standoff approach if there are better ways to do it.
I printed a dewedge tunnel riser with holes for a u bolt and heatshrink as a handle. Im thinking of running some sealing tape around the perimeter of the enclosure once its installed.
Is the back plate that the motor mounts to PETG too? That might be the only piece that would make me nervous. If it fails you could always get it printed in aluminum on craftcloud for pretty cheap. What’s going on with the thrust bearing? I thought they were only helpful for axial thrust from helical gears but am certainly not an expert…
The black where the motor is mounted to is a spacer and the aluminum spacer is what the bolts thread into, I stripped the motor mount holes at 44mm so I made a 30 to 44mm adapter. Ive run spacer out of pla for a while they seem fine, i didnt think compression was a problem for most printed parts. I dont like cutting motor axles either.
The thrust beaing was my attempt to seal the gear drive slightly but its also playing a role in the wheel gears lateral stability once the housing is installed. Like that little bit of wiggle that ball bearings have is eliminated with it. It isnt the best application . Without it I couldnt find a reasonable ball bearing that size that was both smaller than the wheel gear and bigger than the trampa hub mounting pattern.
The petg housing and petg hanger adapter/wheel gear bearing holder concerns me. Like if I hit a bump or something it might crack, but my thought is that the gear is more or less supported by the supported by the hub bolts anyway.. im going to add pictures to this post in a minute for better clarity of possible faluire points.
OK I was wondering about the plate circled in this screenshot but the pictures cleared it up. I guess if that bearing seat does crack it probably wouldn’t lock you up. Curious to see how it goes.
I made a new bash gaurd. I also received the battery and of course its 2 inches longer than listed, so I have to move the esc undermount back a bit.
Anyone use a xt90em with a xt90s? Or is the gap a problem?
The guard looks nice!!!
Thanks. I finally switched from sketchup to fusion and its a big life enhancement.
I’m pretty new, but I’ve been using that xt90 panel mount + antispark loop key setup on a 12S build for a couple months of rides with no problem so far.
It fried keys after a few inserts on a 20S but that’s expected / not a gap thing I don’t think.
yeah. 20s will still arc an xt90s resister is too small for 20s.
Everything barely fits as usual, this is reminding me why undermounted electronics are such a pain. The enclosure is slanted where the m4 bolts should go making finding the right length and washer combination a pain. Additionally the flexing of the enclosure is making the siliconed heatsink pop off. So now I need to seal the hole where the heatsink was. So hard gauge how much room there actually is in the enclosure.
I did get it programed and the gears sound not too loud which is good. Was hoping to test today but the battery was shipped w 30% charge as recommended so I will have to charge it first and also cad up a plug for the hole.
I took out the board for a ride. Maybe 2miles. The freeroll is good, the gears arent making any weird noises. I started in the grass to test and noticed the lack of bindings. Im used to the leverage from bindings. Also I couldnt tell if it was cutting or me being hesitant on the throttle. I took it on the road after and kept it <20 except a few short sustained bursts of >20. Wasnt experiencing any cutting. The battery sags tho its cold and its the first charge after storage to 80%
Overall happy but im not sure how safe the gearbox, for harder riding. The thrust bearing makes a soft high pitch ringing, or maybe the gears, but no crunching or feelings the gear is out of alignment.
What do I lube the thrust bearings with? I used red n tacky on the gears but I suspect the thrust bearings need an oil? Also it appears its best not to use different greases in the same gearbox so what could I use for both the bearing and the gears?
As far as grease compatibility goes, certain compounds from incompatible greases will cause the formulation to break down, it usually results in dried up goo.
Have a gander at some grease compatibility charts;