So total of 8 layers maple (with alternating grain directions) 2 fibreglass and one carbon.
The other thing that I’ve found to make a huge difference is to use a poly foaming glue as opposed to the standard Titebond PVA.
The poly glue is indestructible and foams it’s way through the weave layers beautifully.
It also eliminates any chance of air pockets between laminations.
If there is still a bit too much flex I can always carbon skin the top or bottom or both.
Is there a 3d printed jig floating around for the multi baseplate holes and routing for the axle heim? Just so I don’t have to butcher it like I just did my tomiboi
For the heim bolt of the 3 links I used the baseplate as a guide to drill the through hole.
Only other thing I did personally was shorten the deck a bit on both ends. Even with inward mounted motors I still ended up with plenty of space. This allows for just a tad shorter wheel base.
I’m pretty sure that when I decided on the length of nose and tail I was working to 7 inch tires on the innermost position.
Aiming for versatile configuration without needing to trim the body of the deck, but in a lot of cases it could definitely be trimmed for length… hell, my personal one got trimmed down to a 42
For the fiberglass and carbon-fiber, are you using plain fabric or pre-preg sheets (fabric pre-impregnated with epoxy)? I’ve looked into using pre-preg inside my decks, but that stuff costs $$$$. Also, fabric on the outside has its advantages despite being labor intensive.
I’d expect underside of the deck to make most impact on lengthwise flex. That’s where the veneer will be in tension and a CF skin will help that the most.