It’s stuck 
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The dw2 is the only mbs deck that has asymmetrical concave. My top mount enclosure fit @flasher’s colt 90 deck well and the markone deck with no issue but definitely has more gap on the dw2.
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@Venom121212 I should have been a bit precise. My case isn’t flush but thats the case’s fault. It has 2 long pads on the bottom and they’re where most of the contact is made
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Ahh gotcha. Can you get a photo?
I wonder if you could just get a rubber sheet of equal thickness or slightly thicker and cut it to fit
That’s the plan 
Now the problem lies in the velcro I put there…it’s kinda stuck
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Hmm maybe a 3d printed piece that slips on there and bolts to the box? Then keep the velcro haha
I’m thinking possibly the opposite. A print that I place on the board to fill the gap and help lock the case’s position more precisely.
I was going off you not wanting to remove the velcro. I guess you could just screw on top of it
I’m starting to get confused reading about the printer…
@Venom121212 is the SD card required at all times or is the printer’s software installled directly in the printer
Software (firmware really) is already on the printer. Sd card is where you store files to print. You can also hook up a computer or raspberry pi to the printer (ender 3 uses mini USB) and run a printing software like octoprint or pronterface to print from and interface with.
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@Venom121212 so with firmware already installed, this means all I need to start is PC software and an sdcard?
Not even pc software. Just the sd card loaded with some gcode files to print and it’ll do its thing.
Some people just like to have a pc hooked up to the printer so they can monitor the printer (temps, progress, camera if you have one set up, start/stop prints) without being physically next to it.
@Venom121212 How do I set things like infill and temperature (those are 3d printer things right?)?
On the printer directly?
Nope you need a slicing software on a computer to turn 3d modeled files (stl files) to gcode. The slicer is where it tells the printer how to print the design. It slices it layer by layer based on your criteria (infill, supports, resolution, etc) and spits out a file that the printer can interpret (gcode files).
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@Venom121212 oh so if I understand correctly, if I put gcodes on an sd card, they’re already setup and will tell infill and temps etc to the printer?
Are thingiverse products already in gcode? (I’m on my phone)
Yes exactly.
They’re most often in stl format. This is a general image of the part and doesn’t give away the history of how it was made. A user can’t download an stl and change the dimensions of every part like the original designer could. It treats the surface of the object as a million little triangles making up one part. Think ikea instructions with only pictures, no assembly arrows.
Step files are the next most common. They give more dimensional characteristics to a file but not all the steps the creator took. Think ikea instructions with text and parts labeled.
(see how it just has it as one big part, “imported” on the left)
Finally there are the files made natively by the cad software. Solidworks software makes solid part (sldprt) files for example. This will tell the user exactly how the part was designed step by step.
(see how it has the head, the threads, the hole, all separated)
Your slicer generally wants stl files. So when I go to make something to print, I make the sldprt file in solidworks, save it as an stl, open it in cura (my slicer), load one of my printing profiles (35% infill, no support, layer height, blah blah blah), and hit slice. It generates the gcode file and allows you to preview the exact path the printer will take layer by layer. You save it to wherever you want and copy it over to your SD card and it’s ready to go.
The problem with using gcode files off thingiverse is you have to have the exact same printer and setup to make sure it works. If you have a different machine, nozzle size, printer head, hotend, etc. it likely won’t print well.
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Guess it’s gonna be a few days before my first print 