I’d advise against that. Also 10awg is extremely overkill and will make that pack thicker. Dual 14awg will handle all of the current from that nickel just fine.
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where should I get the nickel from
I think I am just going to go with a set up like this what kinda amps do you think I can pull
Mate posting in both threads at the same time is not going to help you get answers faster lol
sorry about that.
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I haven’t been following this story but that configuration is one of the most common here and it works well
You should be able to pull more amps than those batteries can provide, I think. Depending on thickness and width of nickel of course
the batteries are P42a and the nickel is 30x.2 mm
and wire is 14 awg
Should have no problem pulling 100a constant, or higher pulsed
but my lead wires will only be 10awg and the wires on the vesc and motor are only 12awg?
You asked how much you could pull from that setup and I told you lol
He means the battery serial connections can withstand 100a, but the total system can only pull as much as its weakest link. Your series connections and 4p p42a cells sound like they would be stronger links than the battery to ESC connection. You would not have to upgrade those connections if you don’t plan on using the 100 battery amps, though
Sure but no harm in that. I also am a believer that 10awg is more than enough for almost any esk8 pack
Just like how XT-90 is more than capable of most esk8 pack discharge leads
Personally I wouldn’t consider going higher than 10awg unless the pack is like 8P plus and you’re ACTUALLY pulling 120amps constant or something. 10awg is pain enough to solder onto nickel in the first place
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thank you guys
Hi all!
I was lucky enough that my work had some extra 18650 battery packs left over from some battery testing that they were doing and they were willing to let me have them as they would have been collecting dust otherwise (not for that long, it’s been a month). The cells are CMICR 18650 F9M cells and it looks like they are rated for 10A discharge per. The packs are setup in a 3S5P config with each individual pack having it’s own BMS.
My question is, what would be the simplest way to covert 4 of these over to a 12S5P 18650 pack (12S10P potentially as there are 6 others that I can grab if needed)? Charge them separately due to them all having separate a BMS? Take the BMS off of each and get a 12S BMS for all of them? Not even attempt this because it’s probably better to just have a pack made?
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I’d go this route. Make sure they are all at about the same charge level then tear apart and rebuild in the configuration you want with a 12s bms
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Happy Friday Everyone
Big day today as I finally finished my first ever battery build! Picture attached.
Q - I read somewhere that I should charge the battery to 100% after the first build. Do you know what settings for the BMS I should use before I plug in the charger? I’m using the LLT Smart BMS. Attached photo of default parameters.
Thank you again for everyone’s help on this project 
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Congrats on finishing your first pack dude, well done.
I leave the LLT on default settings, there’s no real need to change anything.
When I finish building a pack, i will always test to see if it charges, but i never fully charge it until i’m ready to actually use it.
Keeping batteries stored at full charge is no bueno. So unless you have a way to discharge it back down to somewhere around storage voltage, i wouldnt be fully charging it if i were you
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Speaking of, any recommendations? (beside riding)
I heard something about a lightbulb somewhere. it would be nice to have this capability without buying a fancy charger.
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I use a 12v automotive lightbulb for small lipos, I’d imagine a full size bulb would work for an esk8 pack if you soldered a connector to one of those screw sockets