Please rate my welds. Melctrics, 25ms, 0.2mm nickel. The pull test left 4 small holes in the nickel and pieces of nickel on the cell.
Thank you!
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Welds looks solid, what settings are you at?
25ms. It says 14W.
Edit:
14W means 14 welds lol. I though it was watts or something.
Anyways thanks for vote of confidence!
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rate my balance leads
no crossovers
fish paper when they needed to cross
checked all voltages at the end of the lead and all good
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sorry
no crossovers of just wire with its insulation
when they needed to cross i placed fishpaper in between
Get that fhucking greasy arse electrical tape off of them & itâs good 
Seriously, anything other than electric tape⌠even gorilla tape would be fine. Electrical tends to peel off easily & leaves behind disgusting uncleanable residue
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These solder joints look like theyâre just sitting on top of the nickel and didnât adhere properly.
Try reworking them by adding flux. Also, move it to the left a bit so the current gets distributed a bit better between the p-group.
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Deep fried.
On the soldering bitâŚtheyâre likely fine. The kind of heat it likely took to make those blobs most likely also had them wet the surface decently.
Moving them over may distribute current more evenly, but it looks like a folded over piece, at which point the current handling is probably fine. And reheating everything to move it all over could be going into the area of diminishing returns.
Just my thoughts.
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prob should have added extra solder when i did
they are definetley adhered to the surface properly
someone knicked my gorilla tape
electrical and kapton is all i have left and kapton doesnt stick
Odd that kapton tape wouldnât stick⌠It should stick to almost everything. I use it to tape silicone wire to a skewer to thread it through assemblies and it holds well⌠So thatâs odd.
Electrical tapeâs main issue is the adhesive. Itâs not strong. The vinyl itself is good. Insulates well and is elastic enough to soften sharp edges and textures.
But electrical tape is designed as a mass use, cheap insulator for non moving wiring inside of walls. Itâs used in large quantities and so part of its ethos is low expense. That tends on be on the adhesive.
3M makes a vinyl tape thatâs quite nice. I use it in some packs to smoothly cover an end before shrink wrapping. But the adhesive is more robust and doesnât slide or get goupy.
Iâd also recommend avoiding electrical tape for securing those down. If youâre heat shrinking the whole pack, it may add additional securement to those wires. But, that would only really be if the shrink went down on top of them and actually was able to contact the electrical tape to apply pressure and keep it from moving. That, would then depend on how flat a top surface the pack has.
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ok sure
will buy some gorilla tape and use it to stick them down
i will be heat shrinking soon but first need to confirm that its all ok
i bought my kapton from fogstar and i have always found that its adhesive is never strong enough
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Kapton adhesive isnât amazing.
My preferred method is a double stick as simple as scotch brand underneath the wires, & then a few pieces of something decent on top or hot glue/silicone like some other builders use.
Just gorilla will be fine tho. The electrical will also probably be fine as it is⌠just in the future use something better is my recommendation. If you ever have to take it off youâll see why itâs not the best choice.
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i will add some hot glue then
that seems like a good idea
Are you sure that the end of the balance leads is long enough to get the BMS into a nice position? Looks pretty short. Otherwise it looks like a decent job to me. 
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yeah just long enough
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need a 14s bms slightly smaller then a daly
sadly it doesnt fit in the enclosure (by about 5mm)
if anyone has a recommendation please lmk
edit: would it be hazardous to remove the daly from its case?
i would protect it with fishpaper and heatshrink
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Just balance with an external charger and donât put a BMS into your build. More room for other stuff.
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which li-ion charger also acts as a bms?