We gotta start yeetin people out of here sooner. They can just lurk w/o an account if they’re a dick and have no actual knowledge to otherwise contribute
Maybe he should try running with his battery pack in one hand and a water bottle in the other & start skipping once he picks up some speed & then begin to dump out his water bottle backwards, that will teach him the ways of soldering
I’m not suggesting anyone be unnecessarily harsh to anyone.
However, batteries of this nature and scale aren’t things to be joked with, toyed with, or treated lightly. They’re legitimately dangerous and can harm people and property.
This is something that needs to be greatly understood not just on the level of one’s own work quality, but what that implies for anyone in possession of that work going forward.
The people in the same home as the builder are at the mercy of the quality and safety of that work.
Should the pack be handed off to someone else, they and anyone in their home are at the mercy of the work.
This is something that builders should consider with every weld and solder joint, and every piece of tape or insulation. It’s important to realize that one can potentially put people at risk, who have no idea about it and certainly didn’t ask for it.
It’s not a casual focus of work. These are hazardous projects.
Your reel of solder says it is solid wire and not flux-core solder.
You are also using lead free solder, which has a higher melting point than the leaded solder alloys like 60/40 and 63/37.
You are also using silver-bearing solder, which has an even higher melting point.
That is terrible solder to be using. And the only flux you have is the tiny bit from the pen.
Get a roll of quality 0.062” or 0.31” diameter 63/37 RMA or RA flux core solder with at least a 2% flux percentage. This will cost you a lot of money but is worth ten times its price just for how easier it makes the soldering.
I recommend the 63/37 alloy instead of 60/40 for two reasons…
63/37 has a slightly lower melting point.
63/37 does not have the pasty semi-solid phase when being heated up and cooling down that can easily cause a low quality “cold” solder joint. 63/37 goes straight from solid to liquid and back again, making it easier to do quality joints.
I have two lipos and some lion cells I’ve been wanting to discharge. So first I connected a 3s lipo to two 10 ohm resistors (in series) and left it discharging for several hours (I was watching it the entire time). When I come to disconnect them, I take the lipo out of the lipo fire bag thingy and see that it’s bulged a lot. Like a very concerning amount. Now, it’s sitting outside in a lipo bag on some concrete.
At this point, is it okay to just take it to have it recycled? There’s about 3 volts left in it I think.
I use silver solder too, it’s really nice, works better than lead solder imo while being a lot safer. Mine is only 3% silver though, so its not that expensive.
Repost this pic. First off, I have somebody who wants to see it, second off - leave it up for future people reading this thread to see as well as the discussion related to it. Seriously, this is how we build knowledge for newbies. Not just trying to be a dick.
Do it to make even for the actual advice we gave you to try and up your game, ok?