Let’s look at how those cells perform. Using this table (20700/21700 Battery Ratings | E-Cigarette Forum) we can get the actual performance numbers for each at the power levels you will run at.
A 10P pack being used at up to 100A will start to get some voltage sag with some of the poorer 5Ah cells. I’m not worried about any of the cells you’re considering when at 60A. That means we need the Wh (energy) data from the table for the cells at 10A each…
The Samsung 50E will probably perform the worst. Not by a lot but it’s not a great cell. The Samsung 50E2 or 50E3 are much better performers though so you might want to confirm which cell you can buy.
The BAK looks like your best choice at 10A (100A for a 10P pack). It can deliver at least 9% more energy/run time than the other cells you listed.
The Samsung 50E2 or 50E3 would be my second choice.
The higher current rated 4Ah cells are best used at higher power levels where their better efficiency (lower internal resistance, less voltage sag) help to keep the pack voltage up and to compensate for their lower capacity. At high power levels the 4Ah cells will easily run for longer than the 5Ah cells.
I had 4 strips of nickel making the connection but the bend to make this a flat pack made me uneasy and I was worried it would snap as a bend is a point of stress.
My soldering iron is turned up to max and the tip is always shiny and clean, idk how much hotter I can make these solders. Passes pull test just fine. It’s probably just not shiny because my garage is like 2 degrees
but i solder at ~360°C on my joints, and they come out pretty much as perfect as my experience gets em
you sir need some flux. what solder are you usin?
Another question, I have no problems welding one layer of nickle but I can’t seem to get 2 layers to stick every time (they stick to the probes but not eachother) what should I set the spot welder to for 2 layers of nickle?
