We demand strand counts matched exactly.
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Yes, there’s 3x16 AWG and 2x12 AWG. I was worried that 3x16 would be slightly underwhelming for the longer connections. In the hingesight, I could have gone 4x16.
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I only have LTT BMS stuff these days and the bats DALY, sorry my guy 
I’ve got some assorted jst pins, if it’s the 5 pin 1.5mm pitch and a 1:1 with the USB pins I’ll make you a cable, but not sure if it would work
Pardon my ignorance, but if you can’t find a daly-bms specific cable, could you utilize an arduino usb-uart cable to make it work? These are really easy to get a hold of.
Update on your fucked ts100?
It’s dead, no idea why. Shipped working, arrived dead. Maybe it was struck by high energy particles on the way to me, that’s my guess so far. I don’t even know why it’s dead, the pcp is in pristine condition.
Watcha gonna do with it
Nothing. Except if someone has a clue what’s wrong with it, then fix it. 
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Unfortunately it’s not a simple hardware cable, according to Daly. If it was, i have JST connectors and crips and I could splice a USB cable. Daly says there is a PCB doing some kind of processing in their cable.
I actually ordered that exact one, to test it out. I asked Daly if it would work and they said they cant confirm if it will. I take that to mean their cable has some kind of proprietary processing going on, but we will see.
Not to worry though guys, @JoeyZ5 came to the rescue and is sending me a Daly cable.
Thanks y’all for your help and suggestions, and a huge thanks to joe for sending that to me!
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Almost finished. Just need to solder on the main leads. Huh, I’ve heard people saying that it takes like 4 hours to make a good battery. Only now I realize that what they actually meant is that:
- it takes 4 hours to spot weld the p-groups
- it takes 4 hours to connect the series
- it takes 4 hours to solder on the balance leads
If that’s the case, I might have beaten the average time by about 15 minutes. 
Now, I’ve seen people wrapping the pack in a kapton tape before shrink wrapping. Is that recommended/necessary or can I just go ahead with the shrink wrap straight away? Since I taped the p-groups to a piece of cardboard it’s all holding together really well.
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This is done because the shrink wrap isnt good against heat. Kapton tape lasts a while under my butane torch. So I like wrap in kapton because it can protect the cells a little if the ESC blows
imo heat shrink is just there to let you know if something is rubbing against the pack or getting too hot. It’s a damage indicator. I prefer my packs to be able to hold themselves together even if you take the heat shrink off
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I use the wide Kapton tape, mostly because it keeps everything where it is while I shrink wrap, and in use. Keeps it cohesive.
Shrink does help see abrasion, and in many cases does a decent job of insulating in the event that there’s wiring going from one end of the enclosure to the other.
Stuff like that.
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yeah like for that screen you can put on your board that gives you a bunch of data…whats that called again?
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Dave.
Ga?
That’s the guy!
Lol yep
I like your battery, nice and tidy
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Yes
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