The battery builders club

Yeah but I wouldn’t recommend that to just anyone. Copper braid can easily become solder soaked and then become a rigid connection instead of a flexible one. Only use copper braid if you can guarantee that nothing soaks.

Shameless use of my own work as a good example

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Yeah you have to be good at soldering and understand/know what you’re doing to use it successfully

I didn’t found it too difficult though? :smiley: Also, you don’t need spacers between the P-groups, each side is on the same voltage potential anyway. :smiley:

Maybe you can consider yourself good at soldering then lol

I’m sure a noob would have some troubles with the solder wicking too far and cold joints

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Well I’m doing it for like 15 years now, but I would consider myself average I think. :smiley:

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Yeah, id tell you to go ahead and use copper braid lmao

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I’d rather the current flow through the conductors I purposely soldered instead of intermittently conducting through the touching nickel as the board flexes and vibrates.

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The contact doesn’t matter at all, because the electric potential has already been equalized over the top conductors. The sides touching would even be beneficial, as the overall resistance decreases. :slight_smile:

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Yeah I totally agree here, no added benefit to having spacers

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I think you’re missing a no there. :stuck_out_tongue:

Lmao my edit was a failure

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I don’t know the actual reasons why it’s recommended not to weld in the center of the bottom of the can. Some engineer somewhere knows but every person in the industry I’ve spoken to just says not to do it.

There’s no way that us welding there can help the cathode tab weld on the inside of the can though (at that spot) and since there could possibly be a negative effect if we welded there it seems to be decent advice from the manufacturers.

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other people in a space with batteries in progress
:warning: Danja

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Progress…

No shorts so far. (That’s honestly a bit unexpected.) :slight_smile:

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Cover those magnets in something. Shrink tube, tape, 3D printed w/e.

How would that be better?

I think he’s implying that you can short something out keeping them like that

Just short prevention. Only takes your magnets flying somewhere you don’t want once to fuck shit up.

Most people print something out in the shape of a chess piece the magnet drops into for easy leverage in picking them up/off.

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Hey yall. I got a bit of an emergency.

Do any of you have a Daly SmartBMS UART-to-USB cable that I can borrow? I’ll pay shipping both ways. Or I’ll buy it, if you dont want it back.

@ZachTetra, maybe you could spare me a cup of sugar?

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Why you got 3 connections on one side and only 2 on the other? Are the 2x connections a bigger wire?

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