That’s undue hyperbole, I think.
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Not really imo.
If it were verrrry shitty, it wouldn’t be in such mass use by manufacturers and other builders. They’d find something better, that reaches a compromise between workability and performance. As they do with most things.
Of course there are better, but “verrry shitty” it is not.
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See? Right there in the middle.
I am vindicated. All hail the flaming Elmo.
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Well then I paddle a bit back, it’s verrrry shit compared to copper. 
Its like 1/3.
Without context this is worrying
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So I’m making a pack with spim08hp pouch cells, and I’ve come up with a way to connect them, but I’m wondering if anyone sees any potential issues with this method. Basically, adjacent (members of the same 2p group) cells’ tabs are bent towards each other, a threaded piece of aluminum is placed behind the folded tabs, and a bus bar is screwed in from the other side to clamp everything together. It’s probably easier to understand with pictures:
Whole pack config:
I’d love to hear any of you guy’s thoughts about this approach. Also @Fosterqc , I think I remember seeing a build thread where you used some of these cells, any tips?
I’ll likely post more pics of this as I get everything assembled and insulated, and get the balance harness on, but for now I’m mainly looking for feedback about this method of making the main series/parrallel connections.
Also to clarify, this is not going in an eskate.
Yeah you have to tape up the outside of the pouch to prevent it from touching.
Lastly I think that cost a lot more than the foil crimps, could be fine though. Slightly easier to replace a dead cell.
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tape up the sides of the little threaded brick?
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I said the outside of the cells besides the tab but you could do the threaded blocks. Just appears if they ever got messed with the block could touch the outside of the cell.
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Hey @glyphiks, what type of dremel head do you use for smoothing nickel cuts?
I don’t. I just use scissors or a corner chomper. Never really had any need to smooth any further from that
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I can rep a corner chomper, really clean corners really really quickly.
I can reccomend looking around for quality scissors/tin snips too. Usually, just cutting a 45 degree part off the corner is good enough especially on smaller strips of nickel. its really just the uncut 90 degree corners that easily pierce PVC
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Thank you for the tips. I already own a dremel and a corner chomper will only be partially useful for my purpose. I need to build a strip to cover a 9p. I’m thinking a regular grinding bit will smooth the corner in this pic.
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Those inner corners are okay, I usually just run my finger over them. If its feeling sharp/cutting, it needs a cut if not (it may be rough, but that’s what fishpaper helps a lot with)
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You could also use a round hole punch like this one or this one to give you a nice internal corner radius.
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Hi, would love some impute on my battery. I posted my soldering earlier here I since refined it a bit and got my battery spot welded together.
I have since read some more topics on this forum and web research, Including some cases of fire, which lead me to putting the whole project on ice for a while. I have the whole thing warped in a fire retardant blanker stuffed in a steel toolbox in the trunk of my car for a month now, as I don’t feel comfortable having it in my apartment.
I have a few questions:
- Is the foam between the 5s packs enough of a insulation (mechanically and thermally speaking)? I wrapped each individual 5s group in kapton tape, than put this foam material(aprox. 3mm) thick in between. Sorry don’t know what exactly it is. I got paranoid later and added a layer of fish paper too.
-
I routed the balance wires neatly and put a lot of fish paper underneath and even some strips over the wires where a possibility of rubbing could occur.
I bought some natural cure silicone. How much safer would it be if i put it over the balance wires and maybe over the serial connections and over the exposed nickel?
-
I am thinking of swapping my Daly bms for a smart one from LLT with BT.
Does anyone know if the balance JST connectors are interchangeable on all 10s BMSs? And how much of an improvement would it actually be? If I run the BMS for charge only, how many of the features of the smart bms can I actually use?
I now know that the design isn’t the safest. I would have done a few things different now. But I would like to make it as safe as possible without redoing the whole thing. I am also planing to make the enclosure 2 part so i can take of the battery with the bms(safely enclosed in the enclosure) for safe storage and charging. I live in an small apartment on the 4th floor so I don’t have the place for one of those fire proof boxes big enough to fit my whole board. The plan is to store the battery on my closed of balcony at least for now. In summertime it gets pretty hot tho so will have to come up with a different solution for that.
If this was intended as a “flexy” joint, it is not. I can tell that solder soaked though completely and any bending here (vibrations too) will eventually lead to this snapping. You should use separate wire for bend sections like this
not my work
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I know now it would be better if it was a flexy joint. But at that time a didn’t know this would happen. And didn’t know flexy battery pack are a thing. My board is not a typical longboard but rather a old school shaped board with a single kicktail which isn’t going to flex that much. My question is more about how to make the existing battery safer. If it isn’t possible than I might decide to dismantle my pack, if the majority of you experienced builders on the forum tell me that I should dismantle my pack and start from scratch. Because its not safe enough as it its now. Or can it be improved without ripping it all apart?