Yes car battery
I think I am.going to disassemble the whole pack. Do you think I can just redo some welds at the same spots as my initial welds? Other wise I will tear off all the welds and redo it completely.
I might have been too optimistic with my abilities and maybe shouldn’t have used .2 thick.
Am I safe reusing those dented cells?
I mean re-welding on top
This right here. My Maletrics has issues with .2 on lipos. .15 is easy breezy @ around 25-30ms. I have some of the 4p battery tabs from Duck and couldn’t ever get a consistent weld even after cranking it up.
If more than 75% of the welds are intact, I’d just go back through with the welder and hit them again. It welds are popping everywhere, definitely rebuild it.
Again, I’d do it in MY build but not anyone else’s. I understand the risk of using “damaged” cells and I’m ok with that risk with me in regards. But another person that isn’t aware wouldnt know and could end disastrously.
It’s your call though bruh.
Like Joker said, ya, I would feel fine using them but not for a customer
Damn they are brand new cells 
Imma wait the PTSD from my battery fire from 3 days ago to wear off and reuse them.
I think you’re perfectly fine honestly, my entire pack in my daily is a 12s7p of reused 30q’s
Still in balance, still gives me decent range. Getting a bit tired though, probably over 200 hard cycles now
It happens lol. I magic smoke a 6s lipo I was building the other week. Finished it all up, ran it in the 6s Kraton rc, ran great, pulled out of rc, left for a few minutes and came back to hissing. Had just enough time to grab the xt90 and sling it out the door. It ignited as it went sailing. You can still see the burn marks in the grass lol.
As I hope you understand that risk as well, they should be fine. If they didnt pop while you were denting them, then I dont think they will now. Understand though, I could be completely wrong and they could runaway @ any given time.
So with the Maletrics, once you dial in the ms, the pressure needed is minimal. So you want some pressure. But if it welds, its usually take little pressure.
@Tamatoa, @J0ker, and anyone else having issues welding: be sure you are cleaning your cells, nickel (both sides), and welding probes before welding. They might look and feel totally clean, but a quick swipe with 90% isopropyl or acetone can really do wonders for your welds. Especially for the nickel tabs that I sell, which oftentimes have leftover machine oil on them from the die-cutting process.
(Be sure to let the iso/acetone fully evaporate before welding, both of those are flammable as fuck.)
Shouldn’t you have asked that before taping and heat shrinking it up?
Good idea! I already asked a reputable battery builder and they said it looked good. Just posted it here for more input.
TIL. Great info.
Forgot to ask. I connect the negative side to C-?
C- would generally go to your charge port negative.
The whole time I used a Malectrics, I used something like 35-45ms for 0.2mm nickel. And for a second layer it’d take like 60-70ms to weld properly.
Pressure is good, but not an insane amount. Just enough to make sure the nickel is actually contacting the cell.
Also here’s a short clip I recorded with what helped me run the welder.
Sweet, I will watch that later. I am still debating taking every tabs off and reweld fresh nickel. Thing is, there is a second layer of nickel on top of one row of each sides, do you think that if I go through all the welding points re welding each spots it would also help with the first layer that potentially aren’t good welds?
I can’t say for certain, but I don’t think welding the second layer will weld through to the initial layer on the cell.
Please tell me this warning comes from experience 
so what do you guys think of this backfire zealot battery I terms of value?
12s2p 21700 something something
369 bucks.
could it be a good starter pack for a diy?
I wonder what the discharge rate is???
