more worried about me dieing then the pack
once the pack eventually dies im going 12s5p p42a
dont want it to short while im riding though
was considering doing that with silicone glue
hot glue works then same i guess
was hoping a neater solution would be possible
stl where? 
There you go. 
If you want to stack the crates you need to print the bottom rims separately and glue them on with super glue.
Wrap the wires with automotive cloth tape, that way they are fixated and isolated and they canât rub against each other.
any advantage in auto cloth tape over something like electrical tape/ glass fibre tape
The automotive tape is specifically designed to withstand heat, vibration, abrasion, and abuse, whereas those others are not. Vinyl electrical tape adhesive decomposes and becomes goo, while the backing becomes hard and brittle over time.
cheers thanks a lot
will try to order some
Old, stiff, melty electrical tape is one of the worst things on the planet.
100% agree. Itâs awful.
Amen brother.
Anyone interested in a cheap 12s4p from salvaged genuine samsung 30Q? Less than 20 cycles I recon, so they are practically as good as new. Just asking you guys first, if thereâs no interest Iâd sell it locally or give it to my brother.
PMd you!
once you try this stuff you will look at disgust at âelectrical tapeâ 
thanks man
gonna order
Yeah, Tesa tape is great stuff, I love it.
I will say that 3M Vinyl tape is very good also and has nicer adhesive than electrical tape.
Electrical tape insulates well, but itâs important to remember that itâs meant to be a cheap and plentiful option for electricians to use on wiring that doesnât move and doesnât incur any impacts or severe compression.
Does the positive and negative cable coming out of the battery to the ESCs need to be the same length? I want to route them on 1 side and to avoid loops, the positive would be a but shorter. There isnât much space in the enclosure so it would be like a couple inches difference.
It doesnât matter. At the lengths inside an eskate enclosure, the difference isnât going to have an appreciable effect.
Thanks for the confirmation.
A bit late to this party but I wanted to mention something here just as a FYI re this. Mooch absolutely correct that Nickel will NOT rust, however as someone who works with anywhere from a few hundred lbs to a few thousand some years, of pure nickel 200/201 plate, foil or powder, I just wanted to add a tidbit:
Nickel will NOT rust if itâs actually nickel, it will however easily stain with rust, if itâs left in contact with rusting steel. If the two are in intimate contact like a plate of steel and a plate of nickel laying on top of it, sometimes the nickel will appear to be more ârustedâ than the steel when you pull them apart. The rust will mostly scrub right off with steel wool or scotchbrite pad but depending on the surface finish of the nickel, can be surprisingly tenacious.
I only mention this because itâs been a costly mistake (pure nickel plate retails for around $60 a lb, imagine mistaking one that weighs 50lbs for a piece of steel plate), for me, being in a hurry and assuming something wasnt nickel because there was rust all over it.
Cans of cells have nickel plated steel end where you weld, so if youâre testing welds with some salvaged cells where you sanded the ends for example, in a humid environment and you saw rust staining on nickel after pulling it apart, it may be the can itself and your nickel is in fact legit.
Maybe Iâm wasting you guyâs time with this hypothetical but, I just wanted to point this out. Test your nickel properly before using it, and youâll know regardless.
Nah dude, you be teaching us new stuff, I for one, didnât know, which is great. Thanks for your expertise.
Do you sell nickel Strip?
